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15 




IIIH •'COUNTRY I.lFl-y LinUARY 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



First Edition, April, 1913. 
Second Edition (Revised), June, 1914. 



COUNTRY 




LIFE 



HUDSON <S K EARNS, 
Ltd., 

LONDON, S.E. 




\ JUNE BORDER OF FLAG IRISES AND LUPINES 



THE HARDY 
FLOWER BOOK 



By 

E. H. JENKINS 



Edited by 

F.' W. HARVEY 



SECOND EDITION 



LONDON : 

PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICES OF COUNTRY LIFE, 
LTD., 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN. VV.C, 
AND BY GEORGE NEWNES, LTD., 8 H, SOT'THAMPTON 
STREET, STRAND, W.C NEW YORK: CHARLES 
SCKIBNERS SONS. 



THE HARDY FLOWHR BOOK 



CONTENTS 



PART 1. 
Chap. Page 

I. — Preparation of the Soil . . . i 

II. — General Cultivation of Hardy Flowers, 

Planting, Staking, Tying ... 6 

III. — Hardy Flowers for the Mixed Border . 13 

IV. — Hardy Flowers for the Shrubbery Border 17 

V. — Hardy Plants for the Wild Garden . 21 

VI. — Hardy Plants for Waterside tiARDENiNG 27 

VII. — Hardy Plants for Bold Picturesque 

Effects ...... 37 

\ Hi. — Hardy Florists' Flowers ... 40 

IX. — Effective Border Grouping ... 56 

X. — Propagation of Hardy Herb.\ceous Plants 61 

XI. — Diseases and Insect Pests ... 68 



IWKT II. 
Introduction ....... 71 

Alphabetical Selection of the Most Useful and 

Ornamental Herbaceous Plants . . 72-128 



CONTENTS 



PART III. 

Page 

Hardy Flowers for Various Purposes . .129 

The Best Bulbous and Tuberous-Rooted Plants 132 

Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Spring . . 135 

Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Summer . -135 

Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Autumn . -137 

Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Winter . . 137 

Plants for Forming Edgings . . . .138 

Hardy Plants for the Shady Border . . 138 

Hardy Plants for Sunny Borders . . . 139 

A Selection of Ornamental Plants for Pic- 
turesque Effects . . . . . 140 

Hardy Flowers for Show Pukposj-.s . . .141 

A. Selection of Herbaceous and Alpine Plants 

that may be Raised from Seeds . . .142 

A Selection of Moisture-Loving Plants . . 142 

Hardy Ferns for the SkrUbbery Border or 

Woodland . .... . . , 143 



Tlir. HARDY FLOWER BOOK ix 



LIST OK ILLITSTRATIONS 



Fig. Page 

Coloured Frontispiece — A June Border 
OF Flag Irises and Lupines. 

I. — A Plant Badly Staked .... 8 

2. — The Same Plant Properly Staked . . cj 

3. — Plan of a Mixed Border Ooft. Long and 

I2FT. Wide . . . . . .12 

4. — A Mixed Border in Autumn ... 14 

5. — A Mixed Border with Annuals in the 

Foreground ...... 13 

6. — Japanese Anemones Lffectively Grouped 

IN Front of Evergreens . . . ly 

7. — Daffodils Naturalised in the Woodland . >z 

&. — A Giant Cow-Paksnu- ..... 23 

9. — Snowdrops in a Woodland Clearing . . 23 

10. — A Bold Grouping of German Irises by the 

Waterside ...... 29 

II. — Japanese Irises by the NN'aterside at 

WiSLEY . . . . . -31 

12. — Plan Showing Section of A Deep Ditch . 34 

13. — Plan of a Pathway and Stream . . 35 



14. A STREAMSIDE CiARDEN TH.\T HAS BEEN .MADE 

fro.m A Deep Ditch. .... 



55 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



Fig. Page 

15. — Acanthus Mollis .... 

An Effective Grouping of Eremuri . 

Phloxes Grouped Together 

Phloxes Effectively Combined . 

Plan of Border at Westwick Gardens 

A Well-Arranged Border . 

An Old Plant of London Pride 



16 

17 
18 

19 
20 
21 
22 



38 
41 
49 
51 
57 
59 
64 



-Three Typical Young Shoots of London 

Pride ....... 64 



23. — An Old Plant of Lychnis .... 65 

24. — Divided Portions of Lychnis ... 65 

25. — Portion of an Old Plant of Evergreen 

Candytuft . . . . . . 66 

26. — Shoot of Evergreen Candytuft. . . 67 

27. — A Bold Group of Double-Flowered Holly- 
hocks ....... 73 

28. — A Bed of the Dropmore Variety of Anchusa 

Italica . . . . . . -75 

29. — Cuttings of Double Arabis • • • 77 

30.— The Cuttings Planted in a Box . . 77 

31. — A Flowering Plant of Double Arabis 

Raised from a Cutting .... 78 

32. — A Border of Michaelmas Daisies . . 79 

33. — Michaelmas Daisy Desire .... 81 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi 

Fig. Page 

34. — The MoccAsiiN Flower .... 88 

35. — A Large Bed of the Giant Asphodel . 89 

36. — Christmas Roses with Hardy Ferns . . 97 

37. — A Beautiful Border of German or Flag 

Irises ....... 99 

38. — Portion of an Old Plant of German Iris . 102 

39. — Single Crowns of German Iris . . . 103 

40. — A Group of Madonna Lilies . . . 105 

41. — Clump of Lily Bulbs Ready for Trans- 
planting . . . . . .107 

42. — How TO Arrange Lily Bulbs for Planting . 107 

43. — The Nankeen Lily in a Bed of Rhododen- 
drons . . . . . . .110 

44. — Madonna Lilies Effectively Planted by a 

Lofty Pergola . . . . .111 

45.- — The Asiatic Bell-Flower . . . .114 

46. — Oriental Poppy . . . . . -115 

47. — An Old Polyanthus Plant Ready for 

Division . . . . . . .118 

48. — Divided Portions Ready for Planting . 119 

49. — A Root Cutting of Romneya Coulteri . 121 

50. — The Large-flowered Wood Lily . .125 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK xiii 



PREFACE 



The increasing interest that has been taken in the 
cultivation of hardy herbaceous flowers during the last 
few years has been phenomenal. Never have they been 
so highly esteemed as they are at the present day. This 
fact is due to many causes, the chief of which, un- 
doubtedly, is the great improvements that have been 
brought about by our leading nurserymen and amateurs. 
It is only when a comparison is made between the 
Delphinium, Paeony, Phlox and Pyrethrum of to-day 
with those in general cultivation ten or fifteen years ago 
that one realises the extraordinary improvements that 
have been made, and the effects these have had on garden- 
ing not only in this, but in other countries. The increased 
interest in these plants has naturally called forth a 
number of books professedly dealing with their cultiva- 
tion. Of these few are good, many indifferent, and a 
number bad. The chief faults of the majority are that 
they are indefinite or impractical. In these days there 
is a noticeable tendency to strain after journalistic effect 
and to ignore, or pleasantly evade, just those very 
points upon which the average amateur who sets out to 
cultivate these flowers is seeking for information. We 
believe that it is not impossible to successfully combine 
the two, but we even more firmly believe that sound, 
practical information is the all-important object to 
keep in mind, and the contents of this book as well as 
the illustrations have been prepared with th's end 
continually in view. Mr. Jenkins is a recognised 
authority on all kinds of hardy plants, having devoted 
his whole life to the study of their requirements. 
For many years he has been a member of the Floral 
Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, has 
lectured on hardy flowers in all parts of the country, and 



xiv PREFACE 

is consulted about hardy plants by both nurserymen and 
amateurs. Any of the methods advocated in this book, 
therefore, may be adopted with the fullest confidence. 
For the sake of convenience and handy reference, the 
volume has been divided into three distinct sections. 
Part I. deals with the principal uses of hardy flowers in 
the garden, and includes special detailed particulars of 
the more important families, such as Phloxes, Del- 
phiniums and Pyrethrums, as well as plans showing the 
proper grouping of plants for borders. Part II. consists 
of an alphabetical list of all hardy herbaceous flowers 
that are worth growing. Here will be found in concise 
form all the essential points that are necessary for their 
cultivation — the best varieties ; the month of flowering ; 
soils ; aspect required ; and propagation hints ; par- 
ticulars which in so many books are either ignored or 
evaded. Part III. consists of tabulated lists of hardy 
plants for all conceivable purposes, giving, in every case, 
their colour, height, time of flowering, and other useful 
details. An important feature of this section of the 
book is the lists of plants that flower in all seasons- 
spring, summer, autumn and winter. Many owners of 
gardens are able to spend only a few^ weeks of one or 
other seasons of the year among their flowers, and, 
naturally, wish the garden to appear at its best during 
those weeks. These lists, in conjunction with the in- 
formation given in the other sections of the book, should 
enable this object to be achieved without difficulty. 

It is confidently claimed that this little book is a 
complete and trustworthy guide to all those who are 
desirous of adding to their knowledge of the right 
methods of planting and cultivating hardy flowers, and 
thereby enhancing the attractiveness and beaut}' of 
their gardens. 

F. W. HARVEY 



PART I. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 1 

CHAPTER I. 
Preparation of the Soil. 

In the cultivation of hardy flowers a matter of the 
highest importance is the tilHng of the soil. This applies 
with equal truth to every class, whether shrub, her- 
baceous perennial, or biennial, and in the main to the 
entire range of annuals also. But, despite this truism, 
it is a matter too often neglected, or the work at least 
only indifferently performed. If an amateur specialises 
in Roses or Sweet Peas, the almost invariable rule is to 
so make a beginning that success at the \'ery outset 
would appear to be more than half assured. The soil 
is so thoroughly trenched, manure and bone meal and 
other things so incorporated, that the operator has the 
supreme satisfaction of knowing that he is doing the 
thing rightly and well, and, that being so, he is entitled 
to look for a fair return for his labours. Generally, he 
has the even more supreme satisfaction of not being 
disappointed, and the full measure of his success is the 
reward of his enthusiasm, of his labour of love. 

In his first dealings with the hardy herbaceous flower 
border the amateur is not always so enthusiastic as he 
is in the case of Roses or Sweet Peas, but the former 
demand it as much, and repay it as fully as the latter. 
That being so, I desire on the very threshold of this little 
volume to drive home the point, to endeavour to get 
my readers fully to comprehend the importance of 
thoroughness at the outset. All interested should, 
therefore, regard the preparation of the soil as a first 
principle, something which cannot be ignored, something 
which cannot be gainsaid with impunity. Those who 
have omitted this important work in the past — and 
from long experience and touch with horticultural 
journalism I know the number is not a small one — have 
many times repented of their sin, and have been freely 
forgiven by all, probably, save those unoffending 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



victims, the plants. The greater burden of punishment 
in such cases falls, usually and happily, in the right 
place, the indifferent display, the sullenness of certain 
plants, the death of others, and, over all, an enfeebled 
growth, insignificant and poor, uncharacteristic flowers 
being some of the outward and visible signs of this 
neglect of the preparation of the soil — a first principle 
in the case. In any case the old adage " well done is 
always done " must apply, for once a border is well 
prepared the one great obstacle of non-success is 
removed. Conversely, " badly done is never done," 
and the ill-prepared border is a source of dissatisfaction 
and an eyesore for long periods of time. Moreover, such 
border has, sooner or later, to submit to preparation, 
and, naturally, the deferred work is more costly and less 
expeditiously performed than if undertaken at first. 
Obviously then, from the standpoints of economy and 
insured success, the due preparation of the soil must 
be regarded as 

A First Step. — That being so, we may now consider 
the situation more closely. For treatment, an entirely 
new piece of ground exists in the mind's eye. It may 
be a portion of a shrubbery border, a poaching on the 
preserves of the kitchen garden proper, or, what often 
happens, a piece of pastureland is being taken into the 
garden and awaits treatment. In each of these a different 
set of conditions arises. Let us take them as we find 
them. The shrubbery border example will invariably 
be found in a poor impoverished state owing to long 
tenure of trees and voracious shrubs. The first thing to 
do in such a case would be to rid the soil of every vestige 
of root and root fibre, grubbing them out, and making 
a bonfire of the materials on the spot, together with 
any rubbish that might be at hand. The ashes from 
such fires are rich in ammonia, potash and other salts, 
and by strewing them evenly oxer the surface the soil 
would be receiving, if in a new form, some of the essen- 
tials of plant life long since remo\'ed. Such a border 
will require the deepest trenching and heaviest manuring 
to get it into good heart. Should the soil be very light 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 



or sandy, cow manure, whether comparatively fresh or 
well decomposed, will be the best — best, not for high 
manurial value so much as for its cool, long enduring, 
moisture-retaining properties. These sandy soils, too, 
are usually deficient in lime ; hence that essential to 
most vegetable life should be supplied. Even more 
valuable than lime would be a six-inch surface dressing 
of lias clay, and which, when broken down by frost and 
rain, should be thoroughly incorporated with the soil. 
Such a dressing of clay would, in a single year, more 
than restore the soil to its original fertiUty, while making 
a medium for plant cultivation bordering on the ideal. 
Heavy or retentive soils would, in addition to trenching, 
require sand, grit, leaf soil, and light manure to render 
them porous and open. The drainage, too, should be 
made perfect. A more efficient aeration of the whole 
mass of soil would be secured by throwing it roughly in 
high ridges for the winter, an operation which at once 
insures a more complete drainage, while exposing its 
maximum to the re-vitalising influences of frost and air. 

The Kitchen Border Soil in the ordinary way will be 
found rich in plant foods, and possibly a thorough 
trenching, in conjunction with manuring and liming, 
will be all sufficient. It might be added here that, to 
ordinary soils, lime might be applied at the rate of one 
bushel to each rod of ground, and to over-rich soils, 
those virtually suffering from manure sickness, twice 
that amount might be advantageously applied. The 
chief function of lime is that it brings into action the 
insoluble reserves of nitrogen and potash contained in 
the soil, rendering them available as plant food. It 
also constitutes a correcti\'e to soil of much richness by 
neutralising the injurious acids present. In all cases 
cow-manure is that recommended for light sandy or 
stony soils, and ordinary stable dung for heavy soils. 

Newly Embraced Pasture Land may require special 
treatment. Of primary importance here would be to 
determine the presence or absence of wireworm, a ter- 
rible pest so far as Lilies, Irises, and many other plants 
are concerned. Should the land be free, trenching and 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



manuring should proceed in the ordinary way. Should 
its presence be detected, it will be best to take a four- 
inch deep sod off first — ^the " top-spit " — and stack it 
in a place apart. To turn this wireworm infested sr)d 
into the bottom of the trench would constitute a fatal 
error, one that might cost pounds to rectify, and even 
tlien not before many valuable plants had been lost. 

Trenching and Manuring. — Trenching is but anotlur 
name for double-digging, and consists in the removal 
of soil two spits deep, with the consequent crumbs. Its 
special office is to deepen and improve the soil, to render 
available a greater depth of material, aerated and en- 
riched to sustain plant life. Soils vary materially in 
depth as well as quahty, and, in the case of shallow soils 
over gravel, trenching as ordinarily understood is neither 
practicable nor possible. On the other hand, several 
feet deep of good soil may exist, and in such as these 
the trenching should be of the best. The method of 
trenching is to mark off a strip of ground two feet or so 
in width, and excavate it to a similar depth. If borders 
on either side of a main walk are being treated, the soil 
will need to be transferred only to the opposite side of the 
border. If a one-sided border is being dealt with it will 
be best, unless the border is wide and permits of being 
worked in two longitudinal sections, to transfer the soil 
to the other extreme. With the first trench open, a 
width equal to the first should be marked off, turning 
the top soil into the bottom and bringing the second 
spit to the top. A heavy layer of manure should be 
inserted between these two layers of soil. In the case of 
new or impoverished soil heavy manure dressings should 
also be given at the surface. The work of trenching 
should be done in early autumn, where possible, so that 
the ameliorating effects of frost, rain and air can exert 
their fullest influence upon the soil. 

A Final Step in this important matter of soil prepara- 
tion should be early spring forking or digging. Prior 
to this, heavy and retentive clay soils will be much 
improved by a surface dressing of lime, lib. to the square 
yard, which, coagulating the particles of the soil, permits 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 5 

a freer passage of water through the whole mass, thereby 
ensuring a greater degree of warmth and more complete 
drainage than existed before. The same class of soils 
can be lightened and otherwise improved and enriched 
by the addition of ashes from garden rubbish fires, and, 
whilst the soil is still unoccupied, anything that can be 
done in this direction should be done. Clay soils, 
generally, are usuaUy unworkable during times of wet- 
ness, and if trodden only become pasty and unsuited 
to plant growth. Hence the need of surface dressings — ■ 
lime, soot, wood ashes or the like — being given during 
frosty weather. Advantage, too, should be taken of 
dry, windy weather for the same work. 

In extreme instances of clay soils, and where the area 
is a large one, burning has been resorted to with excellent 
results ; that is, making a fire and treating the worst of 
the material as if making a ballast fire. Such work, 
however, is not possible in restricted areas, though its 
effect in other circumstances is almost electrical. Soils 
so treated are benefited for all time. They are drained, 
warmed and enriched, and much water being taken out 
of them by the process of digging and burning, they are 
rendered almost immune from one of the worst evils 
of all clay soils, viz., summer contraction and cracking. 

Light soils are much more tractable and easily worked. 
They do not usually suffer from treading after wet, and, 
as a rule, are available at any time. They also possess 
other advantages. Plants take to them more quickly 
than they do to clay soils. This is chiefly due to the 
existing warmth created by more complete drainage. 
At the same time they are more quickly exhausted than 
heavy soils and require more frequent enriching, and 
they are available for planting at almost any season. 
Notwithstanding these advantages, it will be well to 
give them careful treatment at the start. I have 
thought it well to refer to the treatment of the soil in 
some detail, so much evidence having come under my 
notice of the consequent ill-effects — loss of plants and 
much disappointment — when the hardy plant border 
has received but little or no preparation. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



CHAPTER II. 

General Cultivation of Hardy Flowers. 
Planting, Staking, Tying. 

When to Plant. — Of primary importance here is the 
question of planting in season and with reason. Let it 
be clearly understood what is meant by this. Her- 
baceous perennials, hke.all other subjects, have their 
own seasons for starting, both with root-activity and 
stem-growth. Some, too, are almost perpetual in their 
rooting, continuing to produce root fibres during a 
greater part of the year. The border Phloxes are an 
instance of this. Others, however, such as Iris, Paeony, 
and the Christmas Rose, produce root-fibres at fixed 
intervals of time. The first-named set, those that might 
be called the perpetual-rooting class, may, if convenient, 
be planted with impunity over a considerable period. 
The others — and Paeonies and Christmas Roses more 
particularly — cannot be so treated, or, if so treated, will 
resent it in an unmistakable manner. This is due to a 
variety of circumstances, though chiefly to the fact that 
only two sets of roots are produced by these plants each 
year, and the loss of the primary set — the basal roots of 
autumn — which also entails the loss of the secondary 
set, appearing normally in spring, the plant is thrown 
on its own resources for probably a whole year. 
This in turn gives rise to a general weakness or debility 
of the whole plant, and recovery is \'ery slow. More of 
this anon. 

Autumn and Spring Planting. — In the main, however, 
that large class of plants which figure under the general 
heading of hardy herbaceous perennials are of so 
vigorous and enduring a nature that they submit to 
planting either in autumn or in spring. A principle 
involved in the latter, however, is that the work be 
timely done, so that the subject has the dual advantage 



CULTIVATION, PLANTING, &c. 7 

of becoming established before dry weather sets in and 
of making a fair display even in the first year. In a 
general way the majority transplant quite well just prior 
to new growth appearing. Larkspurs, Irises, Sun- 
flowers, Pyrethrums, and many more are good examples, 
though in light loamy or sandy soils these may also be 
safely planted at other times. The Herbaceous Phloxes, 
because of their continuous rooting and the loss of root- 
fibre and stamina that late planting involves, I prefer to 
plant in early autumn. In this way the plants obtain 
a good hold of their new stations before the arrival of 
spring. 

The Fallacy of the Big Clump. — Let me emphasise 
this, because to the beginner there is no more fatal 
error. The big clump of Pyrethrum, Iris, Paeony, 
TroUius, or what you wiU, is a delusion and a snare. 
The youthful plant is capable of much better work. 
Why ? Because its every shoot and bud has oppor- 
tunities for developing, whilst those of the big clump are 
hopelessly hemmed in on every side. A big clump of 
Pyrethrum may have within its half dozen inches five 
or six dozen shoots, only a tithe of which are free. The 
remainder are virtually out of court — out of action. 
A solitary crown of one of these might appear a diminu- 
tive scrap to plant, but if well rooted, it will, when 
established, provide the finest display — a whole sheaf 
of blossoms. The specialist of the perpetual-flowering 
Carnation or the Chrysanthemum obtains his best re- 
sults, not by employing the stools of worn-out, or, at 
least, much exhausted, stock, but from young plants, 
periodically increased — refreshed, renewed, re-invigo- 
rated. Is not the lesson an obvious one for us ? Is it 
too much trouble to perpetuate that youthfulness in the 
hardy plant border by the same or similar means ? We 
must, indeed, do so if our borders are to yield the best 
they are capable of giving. The day of neglect or of 
indifference of the herbaceous border is of the past. It 
is not sufficient to plant, and leave the rest to chance. 
We must cultivate, and that perpetually, and the harvest 
we shall reap will be a harvest of flowers, an enduring 



THK HARDY FLOWER HOOK 



feast of weeks, or it may l)e months — reaping some 
thirty, some sixty, some a hundredfold — just in propor- 
tion as our lal)onr has been assiduous and enthusiastic. 




Fi^. l.—A PLANT BADLY STAKED. 

Staking and Tying are sniaU matters of great imi)or- 
tance. They show at once the taste, intehigence, or 
indifference of the owner. Badly-tied specimens rob the 
plants of all beauty and charm, and bundle-tied, beesom- 
like examples are the ugliest of all. Every plant in 
Nature has a certain more or less well defined contour 



CULTIVATION, PLANTING, &c. 



of its own ; the aim of the gardener should be to imitate 
it as nearly as possible. The bundle-tied specimen 
(Fig. 1) not only destroys all good effect, but, by excluding 
light and air, causes the innermost branches to quickly 




Fig. 2.— THE SAME PLANT PROPERLY 
STAKED. 



decay, and wretched flowers result. In gardens of note, 
the proper staking of plants receives seasonable as well 
as intelUgent treatment. That is to say, the habit of 
the plant is anticipated, and a good natural result en- 
sues (Fig. 2) . This is done, say, in the case of certain 
Michaelmas Daisies, by placing several stakes to each 



10 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



specimen during the early stages of growth, so that 
with the latter completed, the stakes are quite or nearly 
obscured from view. A solitary stake to a plant and 
a tie amidships is wrong and bad — bad in any case, but 
inexpressibly so in the case of small growing subjects. 
In staking no stick need reach to a greater height than 
two-thirds that of the plant. For example, to Dicentra 
(Dielytra) spectabiHs, or the Solomon's Seal, aU the 
natural arching character of the flowering racemes 
should be preserved. To tie such as these to straight 
erect sticks robs the plants of all their natural grace. 
These plants, however, rarely require staking at all, and 
are cited merely to illustrate a point. Noble growing 
subjects like the Kniphofias (Red Hot Pokers), or 
Lihum giganteum, need never be staked. LiUum Henryi 
has a characteristic lean or bend of its own, and no 
thinking gardener will attempt to rob the plant of it. 
Michaelmas Daisies, of the ericoides or diffusus sets, 
require but little staking, though where it is done the 
top-spread of the plants should receive due considera- 
tion. For such as these it will be necessary to insert 
the sticks near to the root-stock of the plant, setting 
them at an outwardly reclining angle to suit the growth 
of the plant. A golden rule would be never to stake 
unless it is necessary. Staking should be resorted to in 
order to preserve, not to mar, beauty. Elegant habited 
plants — e.g., Heucheras and Columbines^should seldom 
be staked ; the play of the flowers consequent upon the 
prevailing breeze but adds to their many graces. En- 
vironment, however, may in certain instances render 
staking desirable, and particularly when the position is 
much exposed. Stakes, too, should be light and ren- 
dered as inconspicuous as possible. 

Watering. — This, in the case of spring-planted ex- 
amples, is a matter of importance, and again, for sub- 
jects approaching the flowering stage in times of drought. 
In all cases where necessary the work should be tho- 
roughly done, a complete saturating of all the surround- 
ing soil gi\'en from the spout of a can, and not dribbled 
on by means of a fine rose. In not a few gardens to-day, 



CULTIVATION, PLANTING, &c. 11 

standpipes and hose are to be found, though they are 
certainly not an unmixed blessing. Cold water driven 
with force on to a plant is bad ; it is infinitely worse 
when squirting is resorted to by the unthinking, and in 
never-ending quantity. In watering with hose pipe it 
is not necessary to direct the full force of the water at 
the middle of a plant. It is the soil that requires 
saturation, though the plant will be greatly refreshed 
by a shower bath at the end. Warmed water, i.e., that 
exposed to air and light in open tanks, is best, and rain 
water best of all. 



12 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



'ti\ 



''7 4 \ fi A 

















o 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 13 

CHAPTER III. 
Hardy Flowers for the Mixed Border. 

The cultural routine to be observed here in no wise 
differs from that detailed in the previous chapter. A 
point of difterence, however, is that in not a few gardens 
the mixed border is regarded as a sort of store-house for 
useful things for cutting, so that the beds of the flower 
garden proper be not interfered with. It is not, then, 
that the mixed border cannot be made as presentable 
as any other, but that in large gardens it constitutes a 
sort of reserve — a useful adjunct — to the whole. In 
other gardens, and these probably are in the majoritj^ 
the mixed border is often a feature of the place, gay and 
beautiful with all sorts of flowers for many weeks on 
end. Such a border will of necessity contain its com- 
plement of annuals and biennials (Fig. 3), its rows of 
Roses and Carnations, with tufted Pansies near the 
front ; its DahUas or Cannas, and the pillared splendour 
of Chmbing Roses or Clematises in the background, 
which, in not a few instances, ma\' be used with excellent 
results. 

To instance one that at the moment is in the mind's 
eye— such a border might begin its season with masses 
of Crocuses, Snowdrops and Dog's Tooth Violets near 
a margin already garnished by mossy Rockfoil, London 
Pride, and woolly-leaved Thyme (T. lanuginosus) , with 
presently intervening masses of tufted Pansies, and anon 
Daffodils and Tulips galore, springing from the near-by 
tufts of Carnations or anticipating the splendour of the 
Roses only a few weeks since pruned. From thence, 
Paeony and Phlox, Sunflower and Larkspur, Dahlia and 
Canna, Gladiolus and Lily, Hollyhock, Michaelmas 
Daisies in variety, and Japanese Anemones might ap- 
pear in large groups (Fig 4). Sweet Peas of necessity 
would enter into the display, for they are capable of 
playing an excellent part in such an arrangement. 



14 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 




THE MIXED BORDER. 



15 




16 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



From the spot where Daffodils and Tuhps flowered in 
early spring, the Chinese Asters should rise for an 
autumn display when the fuller glory of the Roses had 
departed. There are, of course, many varieties and 
t\'pes, and the whole are welcome for their late and good 
flowering. Other good annuals should include Stocks, 
Rocket Larksi)ur, Nigella, Calliopsis, Chrysanthemum 
in variety, and many more (Fig. 5). The only 
things, indeed, that cannot be put into the richer soils 
of the mixed border with advantage are the dwarf 
Nasturtiums, which, running to leaf at the expense of 
flower, would probably disappoint. Where these are 
grown, let them appear in the poorest soils apart, for in 
these alone are they capable of displaying their fullest 
value. A chief point to bear in mind is a succession of 
flowers. For example, it is not desirable to have any- 
thing gaudy in flower with and near the Roses to mar 
their beauty. A glaucous carpet of Carnations and 
presently a few sheaves- of the crimson flowers of the 
Clove would, of course, add a greater charm to white or 
cream coloured Roses ; or spreading sheets of white or 
golden-tufted Pansies might be there with equally good 
effect. \\'hite fragrant Stocks and crimson or scarlet 
Roses would be good company, too ; an}' arrangement, 
indeed, in which the twain, mirroring each other into a 
fuller life and beauty, would, as it were, be pla3'ing a 
dual part in the embellishing of the whole. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 17 



CHAPTER IV. 

Hardy Flowees for the Shrubbery 
Border. 

What to Do with the Shrub Border. — There is, of course, 
but one way of considering tlie Shrubberv' Border 
proper, and that would be after once thoroughly pre- 
paring and planting it to let it almost severely alone, 
save for the destruction of weeds. We have in mind, 
however, hardy flowers in conjunction with the shrub 
border ; hence, for present purposes, the idea of letting it 
alone must of necessity be modified. The one great 
danger to the shrub border is that of annual digging, 
and, of course, in thoughtless, unintelligent hands, of 
annual root-mutilation also, and that species of it more 
particularly that sets a plant back for a whole year after 
the work is done. Hence digging — and indiscriminate 
digging in particular — is a sort of curse. It is, of course, 
a hundredfold worse when carried on right to the base 
of a plant regardless of root spread. In the shrubbery 
border, where hardy flowers find place, there must per- 
force be digging of a kind, though usually it may be met 
by careful Hght forking amid the groups of plants. To 
delve here and there more or less deeply and to turn up 
tuft after tuft of root fibre is wrong — illogical to a degree 
— and he who would do it would not hesitate in turning 
up bulb or hardy perennial likewise. These are not 
fanciful pictures ; it is done in private and pubhc garden 
alike, and it ought not to be. 

In thinking of the association of lierbaceous plant and 
shrub, the overgrown plantings of Portugal and common 
Laurels beneath hungry rooting trees are dismissed as 
impossibles, for where Privet and Laurel eke out a bare 
existence, the chances for flowering plants are remote 
indeed. In other words, we want a place to garden in 
and not an unkempt jungle. 



18 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

Plants for the Shrub Border. — The shrubbery part of 
our border would, therefore, be made up of Lilacs, 
Flowering Currants (Ribes), Diervillas or W'iegelas, 
Forsythia, Spiraea, Rosa rugosa, Choisya, ^Magnolia, 
Berberis, and other things of leaf or flower beauty or 
interest. Amid these the lofty plumes of the Pampas 
Grass, or the spires of the nobler Red Hot Poker (Kni- 
pliofia) might be seen to advantage ; or, in favoured 
places, the giant-stemmed Arundo Donax with good 
effect. A subject of sterling worth for such a place 
would be the pure white-flowered form of Anemone 
Japonica. This fine plant should be given a place apart, 
a flanking position near a belt of dark-leaved Holly or 
other evergreen, so that its distinctive leaf beaut3^ as 
well as its flowers, might be seen to advantage {Fig. 6). 
At another extreme of the border the pink-flowered 
Anemone Queen Charlotte might appear, while others 
might be planted should opportunity offer. A plant too 
rarely seen in such connection is the willow-leaved Sun- 
flower (Helianthus orgyalis), and it is full of grace. 
Such Lilies as pardahnum, testaceum, candidum, Henryi, 
croceum, tigrinum, umbellatum, and speciosum should 
also find place, and, not less so, the Himalayan Lilium 
giganteum. 

Bold herbaceous subjects like Helenium, Delphinium, 
Sunflower, Iris orientalis. Phloxes, and Michaelmas 
Daisies might also play a part, the pyramidal spires of 
the Chimney Campanula, in blue and white, sharing in 
the display. There will be room, too, for the taller 
growing of the herbaceous Paeonies, for flag and other 
Irises, for Columbine, Solomon's Seal, Astilbe and many 
more of a strong-growing character. As yet nothing has 
been said about the margin, though this also must bear 
some degree of proportion, some sort of relation to the 
whole. Hence, here we would confine our plantings to 
Aucuba japonica vera, to Skimmias, Ghent Azaleas, to 
occasional groups of Yuccas and such plants, with so 
distinctive a subject as Saxifraga cordifolia purpurea or 
one of its kin at the immediate front. Such a border, if 
cool and moist or in shade, might well contain its 



THE SHRUBBERY BORDER 



19 




20 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



complement of Lenten Roses, and the fine-leaved Helle- 
borus corsicus. We have also a hap]:)y recollection of 
one almost carpeted by Lily of the Valley, and another 
which, in spring-time, was clothed with Primroses, and 
later ]\Iay-ilowering Poeticus Narcissi. Needless to sa}^ 
in such cases neither spade nor digging was permitted. 
The necessary weeding, light forking or hoeing, mulching 
with decayecl leaf soil and manure, were the chief atten- 
tions given to a border rich and \aried in plant life and 
full of beauty during many months of the year. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 21 

CHAPTER V. 

Hakdy Plants for the Wild Garden. 

If the Wild Garden is less necessary to the garden proper 
than the mixed border or the shrubbery border, it can 
vie with either, and, indeed, surpass them in its restful- 
ness and charm. It is, of course, not a subject for the 
town or suburban dweller, and the feeble and often 
formal attempts that we see occasionally on the out- 
skirts of public parks but demonstrate how imf)erfectly 
this phase of gardening is understood even to-day. It 
would almost appear, too, that many gardeners fail to 
appreciate it and have no sympathy with it, and the 
twain may be born of the lack of knowledge to guide 
them aright. Wild gardening, however, in its truest 
sense — the gardening of copse and pasture, woodland 
and glen, waterside and hedgerow^ — is, without doubt, 
one of the most fascinating of the many phases of out- 
door gardening, a gardening which brings us into touch 
with Nature at every turn, and which, indeed, rightly 
conceived, is Nature itself. Its very informality and 
absence of trimness of necessity carries it away from 
the more formal arrangements of flower bed and border, 
and we find in it a restfulness and repose as refreshing as 
they are real. Once free of the more formal garden, 
with its precision and monotony, we are at liberty to 
make beautiful its rougher parts, and in such a way that 
they will not be least among the many attractions a 
good garden may contain. On all large estates there is, 
fortunately, room for all, and the wealth of flower 
beauty of this and other countries deserves well at our 
hands. In not a few instances 

The Cool Moist Woodland will be found congenial to 
a large number of plants, and, bereft of the useless 
savagery of bramble and other things, should be made 
much of. There should, however, be no attempt at 
an absolute clearance. We want the wild garden to 



22 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 




WILD GARDENING 



23 



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24 THE HARDY FL()]VKR BOOK 

represent that " art which dotli menfl Nature, change 
it rather " ; hence onh* tlie more savage, useless types 
should be removed. Should the soil be light, peaty or 
sandy, we shall find it a veritable home for Lily, Rhodo- 
dendron, and Wild Rose ; while as carpeters we shall 
ha^'e the pleasure of seeing Gaultheria, Epigaea, Shortia 
and other true woodland plants growing freely and 
luxuriantl^^ It is, indeed, their home, and they apjire- 
ciate it accordingly. The hardy deciduous Azaleas will 
revel in such a place, affording their flower beauty in 
June and leaf colouring in September. Pernettyas will 
grow and flourish like weeds ; the bracken will put on 
its richest colouring, and the graceful willow-leaved 
Gentian (G. asclepiadea) will be among the happiest of 
them all, seeding and re-appearing in its hundreds. 

Where Heavier Soils Obtain, the 1 )aftodil will doubtless 
hold pride of place, assuming a \'igour of which the 
garden proper knows too httle. Moreover, the plant 
appears capable of going on indefinitely, growing, flower- 
ing and increasing, without apparently exhausting 
itself or the surrounding soil. Most Daffodils, too, revel 
in cool moist bottoms, and to some this condition would 
appear well nigh essential, seeing how they grow and 
outlive those cultivated in richer soils elsewhere. All 
the star Narcissi are peculiarly happy in moist wood- 
land, and a few of the waist-high giants of the race 
demonstrate this unmistakably (Fig. 7). Even the 
comparatively fastidious and short-lived Tenby kind is 
often good, while such as princeps. Queen of Spain, 
Emperor, Sir Watkin, maximus, and ornatus, to name 
a few distinctive and ^•arying types, are ob^•iously con- 
tent with their lot. Primroses, too, and Wood H\'a- 
cinths are delightful in their way, and not less so the 
Wood Anemones, which, in blue and white, are capable 
of giving pretty effects here and there. The Grecian 
and Apennine Anemones require a sunnier slope, or at 
least a more open spot, to show their precious beauty to 
perfection. 

In the Rougher Places, Foxglove and Evening Prim- 
rose will of necessity play a part, with Loosestrife and 



WILD GARDENING 



25 




26 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

Willow herb. For plants of bolder liabit we must needs 
turn to the Meadow-sweets, the giant Groundsels, the 
Cow- Parsnip (Heracleum) (Fig. 8), tall Meadow Rues, 
Polygonum cuspidatum, and Sachalinense, Bocconia 
cordata and the hke. In a few places the brilhant 
Lobelia cardinalis might appear. Anon the Michaelmas 
Daisies may stretch into the woodland in fleecy or hazy 
clouds of bluey- white, broken here and there after the 
manner of clouds, with overhead garlands of Honey- 
suckle or Virgin's Bower. On the confines of Nut-woods 
or plantations the Winter Aconite, Snowdrops and 
Crocuses (Fig. 9) might appear while the trees were yet 
in their winter garb, with, by-and-by, chequered Fritil- 
laries and Blue Bells. In planting, the clustering group 
at the foot of a tree, or presently an informal drift of 
Daffodil, Fritillary or Snowflake carelessly threading its 
way amid the grass will always create a pretty effect. 
Avoid continuity : the abrupt breaking-up of the plant- 
ing affords rest and change. The Daffodil, Primrose, 
or Cowslip might fringe a woodland walk or drive, for 
a space, and then tumbling headlong, as it were, down 
a bank appear more beautiful than before. Rising 
ground seen from a corner or bend is a spot to be made 
much of with Daffodils; indeed, instances might be 
multiplied without end. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 27 



CHAPTER VI. 

Hardy Plants for Waterside 
Gardening. 

In but few instances, comparatively, has the garnishing 
of waterside or streamlet with suitable vegetation been 
successfully carried out. In all probabiUty, judging by 
results, it has not been rightly understood. To some 
extent, the streamside has been made a dumping ground 
for all and sundry flowers that would not thrive elsewhere, 
or for the ever-increasing surplus of commoner things 
from the borders which would have been better reduced 
to ashes by the garden bonfire. To some extent, also, 
it has been neglected altogether ; in others, rendered 
impossible by raised artificial margins, replicas in minia- 
ture of the fountain basins in Trafalgar Square. Some 
of the ugliest we have seen have, indeed, been so raised, 
and, by being brought into near proximity to the house — 
where they are never required — savour of nothing so 
much as their own artificiality and incongruity. Equally 
ugly, and unnatural, too, is that type of artificial pond 
which, figuring upon the lawn, has been so arranged 
that the water is on a level with the sward itself. The 
worst type, however, that we remember to have seen 
was so arranged that one side appeared on sloping 
ground, hence the pond margin was raised yard-high 
reservoir fashion to, we presume, everlastingly demon- 
strate its own incongruity and an entire absence of the 
fitness of things. The error was rendered more con- 
spicuous by the peculiar flatness of the surrounding 
acres. Hence, the only useful purpose the erection 
could serve would be from a negative point of view. 

The Object of Water. — In Nature the clear waters of 
the lake are as a mirror to the landscape around, and we 
see in them objects of interest and beauty that we see 
nowhere else. In Nature, too, water most usually 



28 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



occurs in depressions in the land, there to serve an 
obvious purpose. Moreo\er, in large estates, water is 
never, or very rarely, in sight of the dwelling, and, 
further, is usually disposed amid suitable environment. 
Hence, in dealing with artificial water in the garden, 
if we cannot similarly place it, we had better exclude 
it altogether. There is, indeed, no reason for the presence 
of water in a position where tree, shrub or border 
group might render greater service or be in truer keeping 
with the surroundings. In one instance of which we 
have experience, the water was within a few yards 
of the house, a veritable duck-pond, as bad as any and 
as evil-smeUing as the majority. Its load of scum was 
an eternal eyesore, and its owner was advised to partially 
fill it up and plant Japanese Irises, Bamboos and other 
things in the place. The only good way of dealing with 
artificial water within the limits of the garden proper 
is to so deeply excavate the pond area that pro\'ision 
could be made not only for the depression requisite for 
the water-basin, but for the more or less naturally 
sloping sides that such things should embrace. This, 
indeed, should constitute the keynote of all such work, 
a fundamental principle from which there should be no 
departing. The cemented portion of the sides- 
assuming cement is used at all, and it need not be where 
clay is good and abundant — should thinly shelve out 
to high-water mark, and in such a way that the banks 
may be grassed to the water's edge and practicalh' 
obscure artificial work of any kind. This arrangement 
will afford the most pleasing and natural effects. Space 
forbids our entering into the fuller details of constructive 
WTnic, which, following the guiding i)rinciple herein laid 
down, will be better in the hands of the good landscape 
gardener. An item of importance, howe\-er, that we 
would urge is the informahty of the margin at the water's 
edge, and, in minor degree, of the adjacent sloping sides 
(Fig 10.) We make a point of this, having seen a fine 
natural water area bereft of life and charm by having 
the sides chopped down vertically, levelled and dug, 
and, subsequentl\^ treated border-fashion. Than this 



WATERSIDE GARDENING 



29 




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30 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

we have seen nothing more absurd, nothing whicli 
robbed the position of its graceful contour as this ill- 
considered piece of work, and which merited the failure 
it really was. The grassed bank or slope in such a case 
must ever be regarded as embroidery, to be ornamented 
or studded with vegetable gems, to constitute for each 
and all alike a veritable setting, but never to be destroyed. 
An Initial Error in Waterside Gardening is the appa- 
rent belief that soil is nothing to the plants and that 
water is all in all. Many of those who first started the 
Japanese Irises in clay soils with their crowns con- 
stantly in the water soon realised the error to their 
cost. The great mat of root fibres these plants make 
cannot ramify freely in clay, and a submerged condition 
is well-nigh fatal to the plants. We say this in the full 
knowledge of the pretty effects obtained at Wisley 
(Fig. 11), where water is always near the plants. But 
in moist seasons we have had from open field culture 
a greater vigour and flowers nearly twice as large as 
those in the instance referred to. In dry seasons, 
however, these were less successful, subsequent experi- 
ments proving that a modification of the two methods 
is the best. Japanese Irises revel in rich light soils, 
leaf mould, peat, sandy loam and manure ; and eighteen 
inches deep of this above the level of the water, so that 
the roots can descend and get what they need, will 
exactly suit the plants. This has been recommended 
repeatedly with success where hitherto had been failure. 
And not for these only, but also for Primulas and other 
plants. The prior failures were probably due as much 
to the character — its hardness more particularly— of 
the water as to the soil. Such subjects as the American 
Swamp and Panther Lilies, Primulas pulverulenta, rosea 
and Sieboldi delight in similar soils and partial shade, 
while Gunneras, Bamboos, Astilbe, Spiraea, Senecio, 
Phlox, and Michaelmas Daisy may also be partakers, 
should room afford. There should not be many Phloxes, 
however, since much garishness would be out of place. 
At or near the water's edge King-Cups, Meadow- 
sweet, Bulhush, Butomus and Gahngale may 



WATERSIDE GARDENING 



31 




32 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

almost join hands ; the great Gunnera forming a scn't 
of promontory, with the graceful Bamboos on the 
slopes a httle away. In planting avoid repetitions and 
much variety, and leaning to goodly groups of the 
bolder things, get from these the best they are cai)able 
of giving. 

The Brook-margin or Streamlet, clear as cr}stal, mid 
the woodland, should be made the home of Fern, Loose- 
strife, Willow-herb, Spiraea, and Astilbe. Primroses, 
too, and Forget-me-nots should be present in i)ro fusion, 
as well as King-Cups, and, in the drier parts, the graceful 
Willow Gentian, G. asclepiadea. Here, too, may 
Japanese Irises spread, and anon. Day Lilies of the 
bolder types. Of good bulbous plants, Camassia and 
Leucojum would be welcome, while the best of the 
Narcissi — Emperor, vSir Watkin, maximus, Poeticus 
ornatus, recur\-us, and the double Gardenia-flowered 
Narcissus will not only be found happy in constantly 
cool or wet ground, but equally so in clayey loam, either 
here or beside the lake. The last named is also good in 
partial shade, though heavy loams and moisture with 
little or no root disturbance would appear essential to 
a successful flowering. There is, indeed, no lack of 
material, rather the opposite; hence, in a closing word, 
we would warn the operator not to use too much. The 
streamlet or waterside has to be ornamented ; not so 
entirely occupied by ^•egetable life to rob it of its cha- 
racter and charm. Least of all should it be made a 
dumping ground for all and sundry the herbaceous 
border cannot contain. 

The following article by Miss Gertrude Jekyll, on 
" Streamside Gardening," appeared in " Country Life." 
It is, however, so full of instruction that we take the 
liberty of reproducing it in detail. 

" To have water, whether of pond or stream, in a 
garden is the greatest possible gain, for it enables the 
ingenious garden owner or designer not only to grow in 
perfection many beautiful plants, but to treat the 
watery places, according to their nature and capability, 
in various delightful ways. The kind of stream that is 



WATERSIDE GARDENING 33 

easiest to deal with is one which has a shallow flow over 
a stony bottom and that is not much below the general 
ground-level. Here we have, ready-made, the most 
desirable conditions, and it is an easy matter to plant 
the banks and water edges without any work of shifting 
or shaping ground. 

"If the little waterway passes through dressed flower 
garden, it may be tamed to take its part in the garden 
design in rills and pools and basins, bordered with 
\\'rought-stone kerbing and planted with such beautiful 
things as the Japanese Iris laevigata and I. sibirica, 
scarlet Lobelia and the fine double Arrowhead. But if 
it passes through the outer part of the garden, or near 
grounds of wilder character, the plants would be, many 
of them, natives — the Water Plantain with its beautiful 
leaves, the Flowering Rush (Butomus), the lovely 
Water Forget-me-not, the deep yellow Marsh Marigold, 
the bright clear yellow Mimulus, so long acclimatised 
that we class it as a nati\'e ; then for foliage the common 
Bur-reed (Sparganium ramosum). Lady Fern and 
Dilated Shield Fern ; then the double form of the wild 
Meadow-sweet and its foreign congeners the pale pnnk 
Spiraea venusta, the rosy S. palmata and the larger 
white-plumed S. Aruncus, native of the banks of alpine 
torrents. There are other of our beautiful native water- 
side plants, but these will be enough for a considerable 
length of planting. It should be remembered that the 
best effects are gained by some restraint in the numbers 
of different kinds of plants used. If in one stretch of 
20 feet to 25 feet the plants are blue Forget-me-not, 
yellow Mimulus and Lady Fern only, one can see and 
enjoy these lovely things to the full, and far better than 
if there were two or three other objects of interest 
besides. It should also be borne in mind that the plant- 
pictures of wise selection and good grouping are best 
seen from the opposite side of the stream. If its direc- 
tion is sinuous, there will be ample opportunity for 
carrying the path across and across, so gaining different 
aspects of light on flower and water. The path may 
cross either by stepping-stones or by some very simple 



34 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



bridge, something much better than the socalled rustic 
bridge that so commonly defaces garden waters. If the 
stream is not shallow and stony-bottomed, it is worth 
a good deal of work and trouble to make it so. 

" Not only is it pleasant to see the clear pebbly 
bottom, but it makes more movement of water, and the 
movement brings forth that sweet babbhng, the lan- 
guage of the water, telling of its happy life and activity. 
One may learn the \-alue of this both for sight and 
sound at many a bridge in country places where a road 
crosses a running stream or small river. On one side or 
other of the bridge there is generally a shallow, stony 
place where the water is not much more than ankle- 







Fig. 12. — Plan showing Section of a Deep Ditch. 

deep. However ancient the bridge may be, this shallow 
is the evidence of a still older ford. The ford must have 
been made by widening the area of the flow and by 
shallowing the bottom, putting down stones to hinder 
its being washed out. It is a useful lesson in the treat- 
ment of garden streams. 

" Sometimes the only stream one has to deal with is 
running water in the bottom of a straight, deep, narrow 
ditch, with nearly vertical sides (Fig. 12). Nothing can 
be less inspiring to the planter than such a ditch ; yet, 
on the other hand, nothing is more stimulating to its 
power of invention and determination to convert un- 
sightliness into beauty. The ditch, as it exists, is use- 
less except as a drain, but there is the precious iTinning 
water — the one thing most wanted. In such a case it is 
often advisable to make an entirely new channel, 
excavating a good width so as to gain plenty of space 



WATERSIDE GARDENING 



35 



down at the water's edge, and to give the stream some 
other form than a straight one. A natural stream is 
seldom straight, and though in gardening in general 
straight lines have great value, yet there are often 




Fig. 13. — Plan of a Pathway and Stream. 

reasons for departing from them, especially in ground- 
work of the wilder sort. So with our stream and its 
accompanying path, the character of the environment 
must be considered, the general He of the land, the 
nature of the places where the water enters and leaves 
the garden and so on. The path should swing along 
in one easy hue, not straight, but not going out of its 
way to twist for no reason — an unpardonable offence 
in all gardening. The course of the stream may be 
more erratic, and a glance at the sketch (Fig. 13) will 
show how such planning gives opportunities for planting 
and enjoying a limited number of pretty things at a 







.*I^"'1--ES5wT|z'/''''.' - . 






Fig. 14. — A Streamside Garden that has been made 
from a Deep Ditch. 

time, for each bend of the brook may show quite a 
different treatment. 

" The soil is taken out not only for the wider, shal- 
lower stream, but nearly down to the water-level for a 



36 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



width of some feet on the pathside. The spare earth is 
tlirown up beyond the patli and sliaped so tliat it rises 
tirst gently and tlien a Httle more sharply (Fig. 14). 
The rest of the excavation goes on the other side of the 
stream, rising easily from rather near the water's edge. 
In the section the shrubs on the banks are shown of the 
size they would be about a year after planting ; event- 
uall}/ they would be quite as big again. The course of 
the stream is dug out less than one foot deep, flatfish 
rough stones are laid at the bottom, and over them 
smaller stones. If, as is likely, the path is inclined to 
be damp, it can be made dry and solid by ramming 
small stones into its surface, or it can be roughly laid 
with flat stones in the wettest places. The path must 
have the character of a wild path, not that of a garden 
walk — nothing that suggests rolled gravel, and no 
straightly-trimmed edges." 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK. 37 



CHAPTER VIT. 

Hardy Plants for Bold Picturesque 
Effects. 

What to Plant. — -The number of hardy plants of value 
by reason of their well-defined leaves or flowering is 
not numerous, and, in all jjrobability, the best use is 
not made of those that exist. In the chapter on the 
slirubber}^ border we drew attention to the Japanese 
Windflower (Anemone japonica) because of itsexceptional 
value of leaf and flower, and whose good effect intro- 
duced into the border in the ordinary way would be 
either entirely lost or greatly minimised. What is true 
of the individual is true of the group, and equally so 
of other genera whose greater attractions lie in a similar 
direction. For example, such things as Yucca, Acanthus 
or Bear's Breech (Fig. 15), Pampas Grass, Arundo, 
Gunnera, the recently introduced vSenecios, the Poly- 
gonums, and others, have a leaf beauty which should 
make them independent of the majority ; in other 
words, the plants merit a use apart from the rest. By an 
intelligent planting of the best of them, the outskirts 
of the garden, the border line between pleasure ground 
and park, belts in or near the woodland, sloping banks 
and prominences, as well as beds or groups in isolation, 
may all be beautified to an extent of which those who 
have not tried them would hardly credit. Naturally, 
however, the size or extent of the grouping would have 
to bear some degree of proportion to its surroundings. 
For example, a few dozen of such things as Eremurus 
(Fig. 16), Yucca, or Lilium giganteum might be ample 
in one place, while in another hundreds of them would 
not be too many, if the work were being done on a 
generous or even lavish scale. By this is not intended 
that vulgar type of massing seen in suburban villa 
gardens where the chief desire would appear to be tlie 



38 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 




BOLD PICTURESQUE EFFECTS 39 

getting of everything on half an acre of ground. The 
plants require a little elbow room, an entire absence of 
formality, and such intelligent foresight in arranging 
that the freshly introduced group will reflect in greater 
degree than heretofore the merits of the plants with 
which it is now associated. White Japanese Anemone, 
Yuccas, or Artemisia lactiflora might be brought into 
near proximity with Holly, Yew, Austrian or Corsican 
Pine, so that the one would mirror the other into greater 
life and beauty. Rugged banks or slopes, the approaches 
to or openings in the woodland are some of the places 
meriting attention in this way. The plants submit to 
ordinarily good cultivation, but like others repaj^ extra 
care. For list of suitable kinds see Part III. 



40 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

CHAPTER \'I1I. 
Hardy Florists' Flowers. 

What are Florists' Flowers? — Tlie term "florists' 
flowers " is applied to a very large section of hard}' and 
greenhouse plants that, abounding in variety, have 
been evolved from one or more of the species of the 
genera involved. The florist is one who specialises in 
certain classes of flowers, devoting his time to their 
impr()\'ement by systematic cross-breeding or by 
hybridisation, by selection and cultivation. In these 
ways vastly improved strains or groups have arisen ; 
new colour shades have been added, while the habit of 
the plant, its freedom of flowering, and the form of the 
flowers have been much improved. The true florist 
is continually working for ideals, the perfecting of some 
particular feature in flower or plant, to the eliminating 
of the inferior and the superfluous. Examples of such 
work may be seen in the Auricula, Carnation, Chr3^san- 
themum. Delphinium, Gladiolus, Phlox, Pyrethrum, 
and other important groups of flowers whose present- 
day excellence and variety we owe to the persistent 
labours of the florist working from very small beginnings. 
In some instances, e.g., the Carnation, Larkspur and 
Phlox, the identity of the original species has been 
entirely obscured, though a comparison of them with 
the finest developments of the moment will but demon- 
strate the great gulf between, as well as the infinite 
resource and hidden wealth of even a single species. 
It is as the unknown wealth of an unworked mine, and, 
with the raw material at hand, the twain are but waiting 
for workers. In the past much has been accomplished, 
and our gardens are thereb}^ greatly enriched. In spite 
of this, however, the opportunities for improvement are 
a hundred-fold greater to-day than fifty years ago, by 
reason of the remarkable influx of new si)ecies and that 
vastly increased store of knowledge, both of which the 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



41 




Fig. 16.~AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF EREMIJRI. 

{See page 37.) 



42 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

older generations of florists knew not. The need of the 
moment is rather in the direction of discerning, intel- 
Ugent workers, men ha\'ing the courage of the conviction 
that " there are as good fish in the sea as ever came out," 
working to achieve their aims. It is almost invariably 
necessary to perpetuate varieties of florists' flowers by 
means of cuttings or offsets, the seedUngs having a 
tendency to produce plants of a mixed and inferior 
quality to those from which they were originally col- 
lected. By reason of their importance, we purpose 
considering some in more or less detail, giving the 
necessary instructions in each case. 

Herbaceous Peonies. 

The herbaceous Pceony is one of the hardiest and 
noblest of flowering plants, absolutely indispensable to 
the early summer garden. In large degree it is typified 
in the old double crimson European kind, P. officinalis, 
which flowers in May or early June. The hybrid sorts, 
which are so much appreciated by us, however, have 
been partly raised from this and other European sorts, 
though chiefly perhaps from such Chinese species as 
albiflora, edulis and sinensis, whose flowering is some- 
what later. In more recent years a number of Japanese 
varieties have been introduced, though these as yet are 
open to improvement. Points of importance, which 
cannot be ignored, concern their stateliness of growth 
and fine leaf development, with which is combined a 
chaste or brilliant colour beauty, great variety, and fre- 
quently a delicious perfume. Then in the earlier spring- 
time we get the rich effect of crimsoned stems and 
leaves, as brilliant as the Dogwood in winter, and worth 
making much of in the garden. A possibly weak point 
is the transient nature of the flowers, more particularly 
the single and semi-double varieties, though even the 
best doubles share this to some extent with the rest. 
Then there is a certain limit to their flowering, an 
entire absence of profuseness which characterises other 



HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS 43 

short-lived flowers. There is, however, a great wealth 
of variety, of species and forms, following each other in 
rapid succession, and which keeps the Paeony before us 
for weeks. Moreover, it would appear almost immune 
from insect pest or fungus. 

Its Adaptability. — In no sense or degree can the her- 
baceous Paeony be regarded as fastidious. A lover of 
the deepest and best cultivated soils, it is surprising to 
what perfection it may be grown in sandy and com- 
parativel}' shallow and light soils. To these, indeed, 
the plants take kindly and readily. The only classes of 
soils I would not recommend for these are those of a 
tenacious clay nature, and in these, too, more than in 
all besides, they appear prone to a species of root scab 
or canker, quite unknown, I beheve, in soils of light 
texture. Though most frequently seen as isolated 
examples in the mixed border, I would strongly urge 
their use in beds or bold groups apart, or even speciahsed 
in extensive borders which they might share in spring 
with the bolder Daffodils and some of the finer Lilies 
in autumn. The Pasony, indeed, is worthy of such 
specialisation, and probably in no other way can it be 
seen to such advantage. Permitted to grow and de- 
velop on natural lines, the stately grandeur of the plant, 
its leaf beauty, and its charm would be fully revealed. 
A great Paeony border fringing a carriage drive having 
a grass verge of five feet or six feet in width in its imme- 
diate front would be a sort of revelation : something to 
admire, something to remember. Moreover, it would 
worthily present to view a distinguished race, a race 
whose unfettered beauty would appeal to all. The 
border-grown example, on the other hand, is tied hand 
and foot ; its bonds the penalt}^ of a feeble unappre- 
ciative mind. Bundle or beesom-tied, as we have said 
elsewhere, its greatest attributes are forfeited by thought- 
less work. The Paeony is one of the best, and worthy 
of our best in garden or skill. Occasionally it is seen 
in the woodland, though for this purpose there is none so 
good as the old double crimson P, ofticinalis, which is 
always early awake. 



44 THE HARDY I' LOWER HOOK 



Soil and Cultivation. — The soil cannot be too deeply 
or too well i)rei)ared, and a depth of three feet should be 
at the disposal of the plants, which, in their finest de- 
velopment may reach four-and-a-half feet high. There- 
fore, deep trenching and heavy manuring should be the 
order of the day. The manuring, too, may extend to 
almost the full depth, since the roots — great powerful 
thongs — descend to quite three feet in the established 
])lant. By a generous system of treatment, liquid 
manuring and copious waterings, we have grown them 
well in soils not more than two feet deep, though they 
well repay for the remainder. For light soils, cow 
manure is preferred, because of its cooling nature. For 
other soils ordinary stable manure is good. Of these 
there should be no stint. Copious applications of 
liquid manure are highly desirable in winter time where 
light soils obtain, with a deluging of water at other 
times and up to the time of flowering. With such treat- 
ment giant flowers result, so large, indeed, as to surprise 
even those who know them well. The flcnvers seen at 
exhibitions are the result of ordinary field culture, 
though the amateur who specialises need not stop at 
that. In any case, no one is likely to err on the side of 
generousness or to upset the powerful root organisation 
of which the Pteony is composed. 

When to Plant. — We desire to emphasize the " When " 
and the " How," since both are of the utmost impor- 
tance. We ha\'e shown that the Pasony is one of the 
noblest of hardy flowers, though the cultivation of no 
plant, save the Christmas Rose, is so little understood. 
Hence, if our emphasis in this direction would appear 
to border on dogmatising, we ask that it be accepted in 
good faith, as the embodiment of rip3 experience and 
observation, of much learning and unlearning. In these 
ways we discovered, vears ago, the proper method and 
time of planting, and none need despair of growing the 
Paeony satisfactorily if he will but follow the same path. 
The " When to plant," therefore, is the early autumn, 
the best months, September and October, and the earlier 
the better. We have not sufficient sjiace here to discuss 



HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS 45 

the why and wherefore of this ; it is stated as an 
indisputable fact of vital importance to the future well- 
being of the plant. 

" How to Plant " is equally important. To plant big 
clumps of the Pa^ony intact is an almost fatal mistake, 
as their subsequent behaviour will demonstrate. The 
right kind of plant is that composed of three to five 
crowns. If youthful, that is to say, of one year's nur- 
sery cultivation following division, it should be in every 
way excellent. These re-establish quickly and do well ; 
freshly divided examples take a httle longer. At 
planting time the crowns should be buried at least two 
inches beneath the surface. If planted for immediate 
effect, the units of any group should be about two feet 
asunder. Three or five make a good group, though 
borders of small size would be best with solitary ex- 
amples. A noble border, planted in conjunction with 
Lilies and Daffodils, should have the specimens alter- 
nately disposed at least three feet asunder. Planted 
and treated as suggested such a border would be good 
for a score of years. It would become a feature of any 
garden in which it was placed, and, moreover, would do 
the Pfeony justice. 

How to Increase the Pseony. — First wash or shake 
away all soil from the roots. This will reveal to some 
extent the solid root stock and the thong-like tap roots 
as they cross and recross each other. If the plant is 
large, lay it on its side and insert two garden forks back 
to back, driving them into the root-stock two inches 
below the crowns. Now wrench asunder by pressing 
the forks outwardly in opposite directions, and a sever- 
ance Uke that of rent oak will be effected without loss. 
Small plants or subsequent divisions will be best divided 
by using small hand forks in a similar way. To cut 
through the root-stock with any sharp instrument is as 
liad as it is wrong, and is usually attended with much 
loss. To attempt to divide these stubborn-rooted sub- 
jects with hatchet, chopper, or spade, as some advise, 
is the surest way of making mincemeat of them. 



46 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



The Delphinium or Larkspur. 

Its Use in the Garden. — Among hardy herbaceous 
perennials, the Delphinium or Larkspur knows no peer. 
Unique among hardy flowers, it is absolutely so in the 
towering splendour of its celestial spires, as these in end- 
less gi-adations rear their tall columns to a height of 
six feet or even eight feet. Comparable to nothing but 
itself, it possesses a characteristic beauty and dignity 
of its own ; distinguished of leaf, imposing in stature, 
unapproachable in the glistening, dazzling splendour of 
its flowers, as these in stately columns presently form 
themselves into battalions — bold, impressive, grand. 
The well-grown example has an air of distinction about 
it that is not excelled. To-day it is the admired of 
thousands ; ere long it will be the plant of the million, 
providing rich clouds of blue and violet flowers in never- 
ending variety, and without a rival in the world. Hap- 
pily, too, the plant is of easy culture, succeeding in 
most well cultivated soils; is true perennial, not prone 
to fastidiousness. The plant has been enormously im- 
proved during recent years, hence has become indis- 
pensable to all who garden chiefly in the open air. 

Its Adaptability and Culture. — The best effects are 
produced by massing the plants in beds or borders, a bold 
group of one colour only. In shrubbery border plant- 
ings, or where the plant is employed as a great fringe 
'twixt lawn and shrub, this idea may be modified. In 
such instances, good seedling strains or a judicious 
selection of named sorts will be the best. In other 
instances, borders might be devoted to the plants, their 
varying heights — two-and-a-half feet to seven feet — 
lending themselves admirably to an arrangement 
whereby they would presently constitute great galleries 
of colour. In grouping, the bolder growing sorts should 
be arranged two or three feet asunder ; the more slender 
growing sorts^Belladonna and the like — requiring 
about one-and-a-half feet of space. So arranged, the 
plants would endure, without loss, for two, and, in some 
instances, three years. In the matter of cultivation 



HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS 47 

the Larkspur, while not a voracious subject, delights in 
rich soils well and deeply prepared. It takes most 
quickly to light, well-drained, loamy soils, though 
bolder and more enduring, perhaps, in soils of stronger 
character. Poor, hungry and shallow soils are starva- 
tion ; wet, tenacious clays, doom. Prepare the soil, 
then, to a depth of two-and-a-half feet or more, and 
incorporate an abundance of well-decayed stable manure. 
Heavy soils should receive an ample dressing of lime, 
also wood ashes and leaf mould ; anything, indeed, that 
will assist porosity. 

Planting and Increasing. — The best planting season 
is spring — March or early April — when the new growth 
is appearing. The best type of plant — ^the only one, 
indeed, worthy of serious thought — is that from the 
open gi'ound. Where pot plants are received the soil 
should be washed from them prior to planting. If 
planted in the old solid ball of earth they may so re- 
main for weeks, unable to penetrate the new soil. Keep 
the crowns two inches below the surface soil in planting. 
The Delphinium is increased by seeds and by division. 
Sow the former in shallow drills in the open ground soon 
after it ripens. Division should be effected in spring, 
the point of a sharp knife— the plant meanwhile lying 
on its side after being freed of all soil — inserted in the 
root stock below the crowns being the best. The work, 
however, requires care and intelhgence to insure the 
presence of root-fibres and a good crown to each divi- 
sion. Cuttings are useless unless detached by a heel : 
the complete shoot, and that portion of the root-stock 
to which it is united. These root readily in a cold 
frame. 

Pests. — Its greatest pest is the slug ; often more 
troublesome on heavy soils than on light ones. The 
pest secretes itself in the crown of the plant during 
winter and early spring, and may be dislodged, dis- 
couraged, or deterred by freiquent sprinkUngs of soot, 
by coverings of fine coal ash, and by first syringing the 
crowns with a quassia soft soap emulsion. Around, the 



48 THE HARDY b LOWER BOOK 



soil might be pricked up and given light dressings of 
some soil fumigant, wliich must not, however, reach the 
plants. 

The Herbaceoits Phlox 

(P. dcctissata). 

Its Use in the Garden. — In the garden in its day the 
Phlox is on a jmr with the Pyrethrum, Iris, Pseony, or 
Larkspur, dominating it by its presence, its brilliancy 
or purity, and its exclusiveness. It is the equal of any, 
and surpassing some b\^ the remarkable profusion of its 
flowers. It is to the August and September garden 
what the PjTethrum and Paeony are to June and July, 
and, like them, providing a feast of colour beauty — 
vivid, brilliant, or of chaste purity — with not a httle of 
an all-pervading fragrance. Like the Larkspur, it is 
so amenable to cultivation and so well adapted to 
British gardens that it is cultivated by the thousand, 
aifording pleasure to all. In its day it holds undisputed 
sway ; is, indeed, one of the indispensables, of good 
carriage, happily self-supporting, the leafy stems 
terminated by well- shouldered panicles of flowers often 
twelve or iifteen inches through. Of a remarkable 
colour range, excelling most of all in rich reds, brilliant 
scarlet, salmon, pink, blue, heliotrope, puce, and the 
most glistening whites, it appeals to a large circle ; 
its complete hardiness and high decorative merit but 
adding to a popularity which is well nigh uni\'ersal. 
The Phloxes of our time are immeasurably superior to 
those of a few decades ago ; new colour shades have 
also been added. 

Its Adaptability and Culture. — The Phlox is well suited 
for bed or border, or for making fine colour pictures in 
shrubbery or in garden scenery anywhere. It should 
always be boldly massed (Figs. 17 and 18), never planted 
feebly or as isolated specimens. Preferably, also, the 
colours should be used alone, a scarlet here, a white 
there, and a violet or blue beyond. The arranging of 



HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS 



49 




Oh 

O 



50 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



near colour shades in close proximity is wrong ; the 
stronger and more striking will overwhelm the weak. 
Hence a rigid selection is calculated to provide the best 
results. The plant is free rooting, and has a voracious 
appetite. A lover of cool, moist soils, it should be 
catered for in all these ways if it is to be the great orna- 
ment it really can be in the decoration of the garden. 
In the summer time the beds and borders may be 
practically flooded with water twice a week to the benefit 
of the plant, and to the full development of its huge 
panicles of flowers. Not greatly fastidious as to soils, 
save that it dislikes those of a heavy, tenacious clay, 
the plant luxuriates in all free, rich loams, and the 
greater the depth, and the deeper and richer the cul- 
tivation, the better the results. Phloxes planted from 
the yearling reach their prime in the third year, though 
they may be made do good service for a further-like 
term with generous treatment. This has reference to 
the cutting-raised plant ; the divided example is more 
erratic and cannot thus be gauged. 

When to Plant. — Preference is given to early autumn, 
though the plant, being a perpetual rooting subject, is 
by no means exacting in this respect. The earlier the 
planting is done, however, the better the hold obtained 
upon the new soil, and the better the results. In light 
or very sandy soils it is a mistake to delay planting till 
late spring; summer is upon the plants before they are 
established, the result being most disappointing. 

Propagation. — -The only methods of propagation 
calling for comment here are by cuttings and divisions. 
The cuttings may be secured from the stems after 
flowering by a first shortening back of the flower stems, 
detaching the resultant shoots by a heel and inserting 
them in a cold frame in sandy soil ; or by employing 
the young shoots in spring. To procure these latter, a 
plant or two should be placed in a frame to encourage 
new growth, and when this is four inches or so long, 
treat them in the usual way by cutting to a joint. These 
young shoots root best in a greenhouse temperature of 
about 50 degrees. It will be noticed here that two 



HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS 



51 




o 
Q 



52 THE HARDY !■ LOWER BOOK 



distinct t\'i)es()fctittingai"erec()mmendcd,/.c'.,tlie " heel," 
comprising a small shoot and the base or junction 
connecting it with the parent stem, and the " joint " 
cutting, which consists of a new shoot capable, when 
rooted, of elongating into a flower specimen. The 
" heel " cutting of autumn is differently circumstanced ; 
its top growth, which is small, does not elongate, the new 
gi^owth being dependent upon the development of latent 
eyes or buds at the base of the cutting ; hence the need 
of both types in their season. Division of the old plants 
can be easily effected by means of two forks during 
autumn or sjiring. 

The Pentstemon. 

This chapter is written under the general heading 
of " Hardy Florists' Flowers," though it has to be ad- 
mitted that in many parts of these islands the hybrid 
Pentstemons are not reliably hardy. These are chiefly 
descended from P. Hartwegi, a Mexican species, also 
known as P. gentianoides, and possibly also, to some 
extent at least, from P. cobaea from the Western United 
States. So important are they, however, to the hardy 
garden in summer that they are included herewith, 
frame or cool greenhouse treatment — a temperature not 
exceeding 40 degrees — being all that is required during 
winter. A much hardier set is the so-called " Gem " 
class, probable descendants of C. campanulatus. These 
are characterised by narrower leaves, and by smaller, 
more tubular flowers, by profuseness of growth, and 
floriferousness. As a class they are invaluable, though 
as yet they do not figure as florists' flowers. They are, 
indeed, graceful enough and beautiful enough as they 
are. May they ever remain with such good attributes 
unspoiled. The florists' set proper are of a bolder type, 
their fine presence, handsome flowers of many colours 
on bold spikes, and simple cultural requirements ren- 
dering them highly i^^pular. In colour the\' embrace 
every conceivable shade of crimson, scarlet and pink, 
with violet or blue. White is practically non-existent 



HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS 53 



and is not wanted. Those having scarlet, wliite- 
throated flowers, however, are excellent and make a 
fine display. 

Their Adaptability and Culture. — Well grown ex- 
amples are usually waist high, and are suited to any 
form of outdoor gardening. Massed in beds or borders 
they are effective in the extreme, particularly so when 
grown in beds, with the near-by lawn as a useful foil. 
Then in shrubbery or herbaceous border they may be 
liberally used, since no other plant of moderate height 
can equal them in colour effect. They succeed quite 
well in good cultivated garden soils. 

Propagation. — The methods of increase are by seeds 
and cuttings, splendid strains being raised from seeds 
sown in January in slight greenhouse warmth, and grown 
on for a time in pots prior to planting in the open garden 
in April or May. The seedlings may have the points 
once removed to cause them to branch more freely, or 
they may be grown on and planted without this. The 
named sorts, or, indeed, any selected varieties, are only 
to be perpetuated by means of cuttings, (a) in early 
autumn, from a reserve unflowered batch planted for 
this particular purpose ; and (b) in spring, from stock 
plants lifted and potted after flowering and given green- 
house shelter for the winter. The autumn-rooted cut- 
tings give a big early display of flowers ; the spring- 
rooted cuttings from under glass constitute an admirable 
succession ; while the seedlings, stopped once or twice 
it may be, bring up the rear in right regal fashion, glad- 
dening the waning days of autumn with their resplendent 
flowers. Hence, by the adoption of all three methods a 
sumptuous feast is rendered possible through several 
months of the year. 

The Pyrethrum or Coloured Marguerite 

[Pyretlirum roseiim or Chrysanthemum Coccinenm). 

From the wild Caucasian species — the most important 
from the garden point of view of which this genus is 



54 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

composed — there has arisen a galaxy of varieties, both 
single and double, that collectively are without a pa- 
rallel in the hardy plant garden at any season. Abso- 
lutely and reliably hardy in all parts of the British Isles, 
rich and brilliant in colour, pro\'iding a wa\'ing field of 
flower-heads impossible to portray by word-picture or 
brush, these Pyrethrums stand unequalled, whether as 
garden ornaments in flower bed or border, or as ideal 
flowers — graceful and artistic — in the cut state. These 
beautiful flowers have been so aptly styled " Coloured 
Marguerites " that we think no further description is 
needed, Of graceful fern-like leaf tufts, the plants at 
flowering time rise to two-and-a-half feet or so high, and 
give welcome colour touches wherever they may chance 
to be placed. Those having single flowers, so-called, 
have an airy grace of their own, and florists and ladies 
like them because of a charm from which all formahty 
is eliminated. And not only as garden flowers, but as 
market flowers, are they valued, and there is no greater 
tribute to universal popularity than this. 

Its Adaptability and Culture. — The Pyrethrum well 
cultivated is capable of embellishing any part of the 
garden, flower bed, border, or shrubbery border. It is 
at its best in May and June, a second flowering of lesser 
value and beauty appearing in August or thereabouts. 
The plant revels in root moisture when in growth, is a 
voracious feeder, dehghting in and well repaying culti- 
vation in the richest and deepest of soils, with a de- 
cided preference for light soils which permit of the great 
mass of root-fibres ramifying freely. It is not happy in 
cold or wet, badly-drained soils ; in these it is of sluggish 
growth, and, moreover, the slug is its chief enemy in 
such soils. From the single crown at planting time its 
highest beauty and excellence is reached in from two to 
three years, when the plants should be divided. 

Propagation. — This is best effected by di\'ision, either 
in March, or in July, after flowering. At such times the 
roots should be carefully freed of all soil by washing or 
shaking out, and by careful division, preferably to single 
crowns if root-fibres are obtainable to each. Such 



HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS 55 

divisions require potting and cold frame treatment for 
a month or so to start them into growth, when they are 
fit for replanting. The spade division of such things is 
crude and bad, and as it rarely gives good results, it 
should be discouraged. The plants should be arranged 
two feet apart, or rather less. In light soils, planting 
may be done at almost any time ; in others, March and 
April will be found the best. These plants may also be 
raised from seeds sown in January or February. As a 
rule, however, it is not worth the amateur's while, 
named varieties being both plentiful and cheap. 



;5(5 THE HARDY tLuWER BOOK 



CHAPTER IX. 
Effective Border Grouping. 

Elsewhere in the chapters devoted to the mixed border 
and the shrubbery border respectively, we have dealt 
with certain phases of grouping. Now, by means of 
further illustrations, more particularly to show arrange- 
ment, we hope to make the subject of effective grouping 
more clear and helpful to all. Formerly the only pre- 
vailing idea was that of a collection of plants, the greater 
the number of varieties or species employed, the greater 
the boast of their owner or gardener. Then, the idea of 
" effective grouping," of arranging bold masses of the 
best, was unknown, and borders, generally, were a sort of 
indiscriminate mixture, a somewhat weedy-looking lot. 
In those days our schooling had not long begun ; whereas 
now the school-days are past, a fairly good apprenticeship 
has been served, and some useful knowledge acquired. In 
earlier days the feeble efforts of planting solitary ex- 
amples were a hindrance to progress, and while attract- 
ing none, caused many to hesitate. To-day all this is 
changed; the value and capabilities of select plants in 
masses (Fig. 19) are known and appreciated, hence, a 
well- arranged border is an attraction, a something which 
the visitor desires to emulate, in all probability surpass. 
Its period of attractiveness cannot well be gauged. It 
may be but a question of weeks, it may be of months. 
Of necessity this will depend to some degree upon its 
extent, its make-up, its variety, and not least the dic- 
tates of its owner. That is to say, a border may be at 
its best in early or late summer, or autumn, by planting 
mainly the subjects flowering at such seasons. Or, 
such a border, planted with an intelligent knowledge of 
the subjects employed, might be made presentable over 
the whole of the seasons indicated. A good idea of a 
border arrangement which remains effective for a long 
period is seen in Fig. 19, and the effect of a similar 



58 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



border in Fig. 20. Such a border may either be modified 
or extended, while a freer use of Michaelmas Daisies in 
the back groups would extend the autumn display if 
desired. Hollyhocks, too, would heighten the display 
in July and August. 

The Only Essential to good grouping is the employ- 
ment of a series of youthful plants so arranged in near 
proximity to each other that at flowering time they will 
have grown together, thus forming a natural group or 
colony. We make a point of " youthful plants " as 
opposed to big lumps of things more or less exhausted 
by previous flowerings. Solid clumps of Michaelmas 
Daisies, Phloxes, or Pyrethrums would be entirely 
wrong. And a big spreading tuft of a Flag Iris would be 
equaUy so. The free use of such material, however, is 
still indulged in, for no other reason than that it exists 
at the moment. It is, however, a big mistake, a barrier 
to complete success. Cultivators of the Chrysanthemum 
or perpetual-flowering Carnation know well the value of 
the youthful plant, and, raising new plants annually, 
discard the old. The hardy plant-gardener in large 
degree has yet to learn this vital principle, though he 
who is aiming at high excellence will not long ignore it. 
Of necessity there will be need for modification and 
adaptation to circumstances, and we must not be taken 
as saying that there is need for annual propagation, 
planting and discarding so far as effective border group- 
ing is concerned. Phloxes and Delphiniums are good 
for three years, they gain height by their longer tenure 
of the soil and are more imposing. Pyrethrums are best 
at two years. Pseonies well planted and in deep loam 
may be good from six to a dozen years. Michaelmas 
Daisies vary in their sections. The mat-rooting Novi- 
Belgis we would replant annually, in a few instances 
biennially, while cordifolius and Novae Angliae would 
give a good account of themselves up to the third year. 
Flag Irises are also good for a like period, provided 
always a start is made by planting these in March or 
early April, using the single plants only, that section of 
rhizome formed during the preceding season's growth. 



EFFECTIVE BORDER GROUPING 



59 



ll^"?^^ 




60 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

To plant a great tuft of Flag Irises intact is fatal to good 
results, if not to a long-enduring plant. It is a mistake 
to plant these things " midst the breath of parched July." 
The current season's growth is then ended, hence the 
plant is thrown on its ow^n resources for months, and 
often with enfeebling results. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 01 



CHAPTER X. 

Propagation of Hardy Herbaceous 
Plants. 

The Propagation of hardy herbaceous plants is eftected 
in a variety of ways ; by seeds, cuttings, division of the 
root- stock, and by root-cuttings, each of which has a 
value of its own. Seeds, of course, are Nature's method 
of perpetuating all vegetable life, and in gardening is a 
cheap and useful way. Varieties of florists' flowers, 
which do not come true from seeds, or are slow or un- 
reliable in vegetating, are, however, best increased from 
cuttings. Certain " strains " of florists' flowers, e.g., 
Pentstemons, are of such high excellence when raised 
from seeds that these suit a very large number. 

By Seeds. — Garden calendar writers and not a few 
book writers also have the knack — not always a happy 
one — of saying that " seeds should be sown as soon as 
ripe," believing, we suppose, that such advice is in 
imitation of Nature's way of shedding seeds at that 
period. We have no data, however, as to how long 
these self-sown seeds lie before vegetating, though we 
have direct personal knowledge that certain seeds 
" sown as soon as ripe " have remained dormant a year 
or more after others of the same batch which remained 
unsown for months had vegetated. To some extent, 
therefore, and in certain instances, vegetation may be 
said to be hastened by the seeds being kept some time 
in the dry state before sowing. The great range and 
variability of seeds, however, precludes any detailed 
discussion of the question here. 

What we prefer to do, therefore, is to indicate some 
of the more vital points — principles — in this connection. 
The larger-seeded subjects, such as Lupin, Perennial- 
Pea, Iris, Kniphofia, Anthericum, Eremurus, ChristmdS 
Rose, Adonis, or quickly vegetating subjects like 
Anchusa, Gaillardia, Columbine, Iberis, and Alyssum, 



62 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

are best sown either in drills in the open ground, or with 
the protection of a spare frame light. Phlox, Iris, 
Christmas Rose, certain of the Anemones, including 
A. Hepatica, and others very slow to vegetate, should 
be sown in a place apart or in pans or pots, so that they 
may be kept for years. All small seeds are best sown 
in pans or boxes, owing to the interference by birds and 
animals when sown in the open ground. Seeds of large 
size should be covered nearly half an inch deep ; the 
smaller seeds should be merely covered their own depth 
with very fine soil or sand. Primulas and Polyanthus, 
working by their own weight into the interstices of the 
soil, are often best without any soil covering at all. The 
seeds of these, also Eremurus and Columbine, soon lose 
vitality if long kept out of the soil, and many other in- 
stances might be given did space permit. 

A Point of Importance is the Time of Sowing. — Fre- 
quently we are asked whether seeds of perennials sown 
in August or September would flower and make a show 
the following spring or summer. The answer is an 
emphatic " No " ! since the seeds would not probably 
have vegetated before the arrival of spring. A few of 
the more precocious kinds may produce a flower or two, 
but the flowering would neither be good nor representa- 
tive. The point of importance, therefore, is that the 
seed sowing be so done that the seedlings have the whole 
of their natural growing season ahead in which to make 
themselves. Perennials, generally, take two or three 
years before reaching full maturity. Kniphofias, Paeonies, 
Irises, Eremuri and Lilies take much longer, hence the 
need for careful cultivation all along the line. Avoid 
thick sowing. Indulge in timely transplanting. To 
many open-air seed sowing may present difficulties of 
soil, but if these can be overcome by the addition of 
well pulverized earth or sand and cocoanut fibre in com- 
bination, with due protection from all animal life, the 
open-air seed bed will be found a great help. Always 
sow in drills. This system admits of weeding and 
hoeing, and the latter is most helpful. The gentle hot- 
bed and slight greenhouse warmth are other and eflicient 
aids to seed raising. 



PROPAGATION 63 



By Division.— Certain classes of plants may be divided 
with the greatest ease, others require considerable care. 
Michaelmas Daisies, Trollius, Iris, Helenium, Sun- 
flowers, Arabis, Aubrietia, Hepatica, London Pride 
(Figs. 21 and 22), Achillea, Phlox, Lychnis (Figs. 23 and 
24), and Pyrethrums are instances of plants that are 
readily pulled to pieces or divided by inserting the point 
of a strong knife below the ground level of the shoots. 
The Pgeony and Christmas Rose require much greater 
care, and for these all the soil must first be washed 
away from their roots with water. Generally the Colum- 
bines are unsatisfactory after division, and seeds will 
be found a better method of increase. For Paeonies and 
Kniphofias, and, indeed, all plants having stubborn 
root stocks, or those whose roots are crossed or con- 
torted, I know of no better way of dividing than by 
inserting two small hand-forks back to back in the root- 
stock below the crowns and wrenching them outwards 
in opposite directions. This has the effect of rending 
even with the grain of the root-stock and little or no 
loss is entailed. Blunt and sharp-cutting implements : 
the spade, chopper, hatchet or edging-iron, cutting 
through destroy both roots and root fibres. By none 
can such tools be used advantageously, and in the hands 
of the least practical they are highly dangerous. There 
is no better way of spoiling the plants and their roots 
than by chopping and hacking — the ordinary methods 
of the inexperienced — with such tools as these. Hence 
their use is to be sternly discouraged. 

By Cuttings. — A chief value of cutting propagation 
lies in the greatly increased numbers of young plants 
thereby assured, and which to the specialist is a great 
asset. Cuttings of soft- wooded subjects, such as 
Phloxes, Sunflowers, Pentstemons, Perennial Candytuft 
(Figs. 25 and 26), and others having more or less solid 
stems, are best made to a joint, i.e., that portion of the 
stem from which usually the leaves emerge. By re- 
moving the lower leaves and cutting in a horizontal 
direction close to the base of the leaves, the " joint " is 
revealed, at least in part. These root best in slight 



(■54 



THE HARDY Fl.OWl-R HOOK 




Fig. 21. —An Old Plant of Loiulnu Pride. 




Fig. 22. — Three Typical Young Shoots oj the 
Old Plant shown in Fig. 21. 



PROPAGATION. 



65 




Fig. 23. —An Old Plant of Lychnis. 





•^r^^ 



Fig. 24. — Divided Portions of the Old Plant 
shoivn in Ft". 23. 



66 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



warmth. The jnping is a modified form of the joint, 
and was formerl}' most in vogue in the propagation of 
Pinks. These in June and July root well in a cold frame. 
Hollow-stemmed cuttings — Delphinium and Pyretlirum, 
for example — and some others must have a heel attached 




Fig. 25.- 



-Portion of an Old Plant oj Evergreen Candytuft, 
with two Shoots suitable for Cuttings. 



and are best with cold frame treatment. But whether 
of joint or heel, the cutting should be always of a youth- 
ful nature. Portions of growth alread}' hardened by 
age or exhausted by flowering are of but little use to 
the propagator. To avoid these, certain plants should 
be cut back after flowering, and thus made to produce 
the right material for cuttings. 



PROPAGATION 



67 



By Root Cuttings. — This consists of detaching portions 
of the roots of plants, making them into uniform lengths 
of about one-and-a-half inches, and inserting in rows in 
shallow boxes or pans of sandy soil. The top of the 
cutting should be just exposed. The winter season, 
November to February, is the best time. A temperature 
of about 50 degrees is best for the cuttings. Anchusa, 
Phlox, Stokesia, Gaillardia, Statice, Eryngium, Oriental 





Fig. 26. — Shoot of Evergreen Candytuft as severed from the 
Plant on the left, and prepared as a Cutting on the right. 

Poppy, Japanese Anemone, Primula and Senecio are 
a few among the many which may be increased in this 
way. As an adjunct to seeds and cuttings, the method 
is of great value to the hardy plant specialist. Root 
cuttings, when they have started into growth, should be 
treated as ordinary cuttings, potting them and giving 
frame protection before bedding them out. Quite a 
number of herbaceous perennials display their tendency 
to break from the roots, though most of those above 
named do not. 



68 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



CHAPTER XI. 

Diseases and Insect Pests. 

Despite a vigorous constitution and complete hardi- 
ness, certain tribes of herbaceous plants are prone 
to diseases of a fungoid nature, which are both dis- 
figuring and weakening. The Hollyhock and the 
Madonna Lily (L. candidum) are cases in point. The 
great majority, happily, are free, or the attacks are 
isolated or rare. In some of these, doubtless, they have 
either been brought into being, or greatly encouraged 
to develop, by uncongenial soil conditions, bad drainage 
creating stagnation, or like cause. In such instances as 
these, the remedy is obvious to all, viz., more perfect 
drainage. In wet and clayey soils this may be achieved 
to some extent by a dressing of lime, which, coagulating 
the particles of the soil, permits of a freer passage of the 
water through the agency of the interstices thus formed. 
Burnt clay (ballast) to such soils has a like effect, and is, 
of course, of permanent good. Both in conjunction with 
the usual drainage of the soil should be made much of. 
Because a plant loves moisture it does not follow that 
it will do in any form. Moisture, indeed, may be good: 
stagnation may prove fatal. 

Fungoid Diseases. — A disfiguring fungoid disease, like 
that affecting the Hollyhock, is best combated by 
spraying with Condy's Fluid, Bordeaux mixture, or a 
salt solution every fourteen days. Use a breakfast- 
cupful of common salt to three gallons of water. Employ 
an Abol syringe with line mist-like spray so that the 
solution does not reach the roots of the plant. For 
Hollyhock disease, Messrs. Webb and Brand recom- 
mend the following : — Slake one bushel of lime, 
and when cool add one bushel of soot, 4 lbs. 
flowers of sulphur, and 2 ozs. sulphate of copper, finely 
powdered. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, and 



DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS 69 



dust the plants well over with it three or four times 
during the growing season and when the leaves are 
damp. 

For Irises, Gladioli, Lilies, Violets, Christmas Roses, 
Delphiniums and Carnations spraying with Sulphide of 
Potassium is to be preferred, one ounce to three gallons 
of water, not oftener than every fourteen days. For the 
first two-named, because of their sword-shaped leaves — 
though it may be used in all cases with good results — 
a little soft soap should be added to the solution. This 
will assist it to adhere to the leaves of the plants. Both 
surfaces of the leaves, upper and under, should be 
wetted. This is important, as the fungus, indeed, often 
vegetates on the under surfaces of the lea^■es. In low- 
lying and damp situations, where certain plants are 
more prone to disease than in higher ground with more 
bracing air, it is best to try preventive measures. DonH 
ivaii till the plants are overwhelmed by disease before 
making a start. Above all things — this advice is golden 
— burn at once all the fungus-smitten parts of plants ; 
don't take them to the rubbish heap for a time, for they 
may reappear in the garden another j^ear a thousand- 
fold stronger. 

Insect Pests. — The chief of these are Wireworm, vSlug, 
and short-tailed Vole. The only remedy for Wireworm 
that I know, apart from birds with young and at other 
times, is " Catch and Kill." Soil fumigants are said to 
do the latter, but that is not the author's experience. 
Lily bulbs. Carnations, the rhizomatous Irises, and all 
the Gladioli suffer considerably from their attacks. 
Daffodils, happily, are immune. Slices of Potato on 
sticks, and sunk into the earth, is a good way of trapping 
them. Frequent stirring of the soil also renders them 
a prey for birds. Gas lime is efficacious, but can only 
be appUed to vacant ground. 

Slugs. — These are easily killed by contact with the 
advertised soil fumigants. Common salt, either dry or in 
solution, is also fatal to them, and is strongly recom- 
mended for vacant ground. Apply the solution from a 
coarse-rosed watering can. Neither of these must be 



70 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



applied to the plants or even quite near them. In the 
case of Eremurus, Larkspur, Pyrethrum, or other plant 
suffering much from their attacks, owing to their 
hibernating in the crowns, a quassia and soft soap 
solution syringed into the crowns will be helpful. It 
should be followed by a covering of coal ash, which is 
protective. We have found the V.T.H. slug trap, 
baited with bran, excellent for catching these pests. 
Caterpillars are best got rid of by hand picking and 
dropping them into a small pail with salt and water. 
This is also effectual for slugs and snails in those instances 
where hand-jncking has to be resorted to. 

Aphides and Cuckoo-Spit. — These are easily got rid 
of by syringing with paraffin and soft soap emulsion, or 
by the use of tobacco water. For the last-named, a 
little force from the syringe will remo^'e the protective 
" spittle." Neither do great harm to herbaceous 
plants. For Carnations, Marguerites and other plants 
subject to attacks from leaf miners, a quassia and soft 
soap emulsion should be sprayed over the plants to 
render them distasteful to the egg-depositing fly. Soot 
water might also be employed to the same end. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 71 



PART II. 

INTRODUCTION. 

In the following pages we give, in alphabetical order, 
a selection of the most useful and ornamental genera to 
be found among herbaceous plants. Distinct varieties 
are also added, together with brief cultural details, best 
methods of increase, and other salient points. For 
fuller and more precise information in the matter of 
seed sowing and propagation, the reader is referred to 
the special chapters on these subjects in Part I. As a 
guide to the planter, the approximate heights of the 
established plants are given, though it should be remem- 
bered that these vary, not only with localities, but with 
soil depth and richness, rainfall, seasons and other 
things. Whilst not ignoring the dwarfer growing 
subjects, greater attention has been paid to the more 
showy — the indispensables — -which, by reason of good 
habit or freedom of flowering, will be found most attrac- 
tive in the border. As a means of familiarising these 
plants and rendering reference thereto of easier moment, 
the popular English names — following the generic, or 
family name — will be found given in brackets. 



72 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



Acantholimon [Prickly Thrift). — The most serviceable 
species of this small genus is A. glumaceum ; the choicest, 
A. venustum. The flowers are coloured rose and pink 
respectively, and are borne in two ranked spikes of six 
inches or so high. The leaf tufts are dense and spiny. A. 
glumaceum is a capital edging plant on light soils, and 
both are good in the rock garden. Flowers in summer. 
Increased by seeds, careful division in spring, or by 
small heel cuttings in August. 

Acanthus [Bear's Breech). — Stately herbaceous peren- 
nials best suited to picturesque grouping or in beds in 
isolation. Their handsome leafage has been as much 
esteemed by the sculptor as by the gardener, and is 
frequently seen in Corinthian architecture. When 
established, the noble tufts of arching, glossy green or 
silvered leaves reach a yard high and often six feet across ; 
the flower spikes about six feet high. Given generous 
treatment they are noble indeed. A. mollis latifolius, 
rose and white, and A. spinosus spinosissimus, rosy flesh 
coloured, are the best. Flowers in July. Increased by 
division in spring, seeds and root cuttings. (See illus- 
tration, page 38.) 

Achillea [Milfoil, Yarrow or Sneezeivort). — The border 
kinds are all free, robust growing subjects, and succeed 
well in ordinary garden soil. A. filipendulina and its 
variety eupatorium are four to five feet high, withflatish 
corymbs of yellow flower heads. A. Ptarmica fl.-pl., 
A. P. The Pearl, and A. P. Perry's white, the most recent 
addition to the group, are white-flowered and useful in 
the cut state. A. alpina, also white-flowered, two feet ; 
and A. millefolium roseum, two-and-a-half feet, are very 
desirable. Division in early spring. 

Aconitum [Monk's-hood or Wolf's-bane). — It should be 
stated at once that these are poisonous, hence should 
never be allowed in children's gardens. A. Hemsleyanum 
and A. Vilmorinii are climbing herbaceous plants with 
blue flowers. A. lycoctonum and A. pyrenaicum are 
yellow ; A. Wilsonii five to six feet high, a recent 
introduction from China, is a grand ]^lant, flowers deep 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



78 




Fig. 27. 



A BOLD GROUP OF DOUBLE-FLOWERED 
HOLLYHOCKS. 



74 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



blue ; A. Fischeri, A. autumnale, two-and-a-half feet, 
violet blue. All of easy culture. Di\ision in spring or 
autumn. The varieties of A. Napellus are only worthy 
a place in the wild garden. 

Adonis {Ox-Eye). — A small yet important genus of 
spring flowering plants having yellow saucer-shaped 
flowers and elegant fern-like foliage. A. amurensis 
pushes out its golden cups in February and is much 
esteemed. Its double form, A. a. fl.-pl., with golden 
outer petals and olive-green centre, is a great favourite. 
Both reach a foot high or rather more. A. ^^ernalis 
glories in March and April sunshine, when it gives its 
glistening yellow, three inch wide flowers. All prefer 
deep, rich, light sandy loam and sun-warmed places. 
Avoid root mutilation and winter di\'ision. Spring is 
best. Raise seedlings in plenty. 

Alstrcemeria {Herb Lily). — The most valuable species, 
as it is the most hardy, is A. aurantiaca, whose orange- 
bronze, Lily-like flowers appeal to all. This plant is 
better suited to a warm position away from the border 
proper, where it may remain a dozen years without 
disturbance. Plant six to eight inches deep, in autumn, 
when dormant. Light, loamy, well-drained soil is best. 
Give a good layer of manure three inches below the 
tubers. June- July flowering. Increased readily by 
division and seeds. 

Althaea {Hollyhock). — A. rosea (Fig. 27) is the common 
Hollyhock. A noble plant affording giant spires of 
flowers in July and August. The best results are ob- 
tained by raising seedlings and good reliable strains in 
all shades of colour are obtainable from the seedsmen 
or specialists. Sow in early spring and transplant to 
permanent position in autumn. For treatment of 
disease see page 68. 

Anchusa {Alkanet). — A chief value attaches to this 
small genus by reason of the intense gentian blue of the 
flowers of A. italica and its varieties, of which A. i. 
Dropmore (Fig. 28) is perhaps the noblest. A. i. Opal 
has " sky " or " Cambridge blue " flowers. While not 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



75 







76 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

fastidious, the plant grows well on most soils, including 
chalk. Well-grown examples reach to six feet high or 
more. Whilst quite a good perennial, the plant often 
becomes exhausted by profuse flowering, and should, 
therefore, be periodically increased from root-cuttings. 
(See Propagation, page 67.) Seeds are freely produced, 
but the seedlings vary, and the best types should be 
raised b}^ root-cuttings as suggested. A. myosotidiflora 
has Forget-me-not like flowers and is a very beautiful 
plant. 

Anemone [Wnidflmver). — A genus rich in beauty and 
\'ariety. A. blanda (the Grecian Windflower) stains 
the earth with blue in February and March. A. Hepatica 
(" Common Hepatica ") gives cushions of flowers in red, 
white and blue in spring. Following these come the 
" Pasque Flower," A. Pulsatilla, in purple robe arrayed. 
In May appears the " Snowdrop Windflower," h. sylves- 
tris, rather less than two feet high, and anon A. alpina 
and A. sulphurea, the greatest of the i\lpine Windflowers, 
and good border plants withal. Then, in turn, the 
glorious array of cheap, easily grown Poppy Anemones, 
prolific seed bearers and easily raised therefrom. Last, 
though not least — as invaluable as they are indispensable 
— come the distinguished Japanese sorts of autumn, of 
which a dozen or more varieties are now grown. These 
prefer light, loamy soils, and grow apace if not too fre- 
quently moved. Some good ones, apart from the reddish 
flowered type, are A. japonica alba, white ; Queen 
Charlotte, pink ; Lord Ardilaun, white ; elegantissima, 
rosy ; and Lady Ardilaun, purest white. These, when 
established, are about four feet high. A. nemorosa 
Robinsonii, A. n. AUenii, and A. fulgens are also valuable 
among dwarf kinds flowering in spring. 

Anthemis {Cliamomile). — The best garden forms are 
those belonging to A. tinctoria, E. G. Buxton and 
Kelwayi for example, both of which have yellow Mar- 
guerite-like flower heads. i\ much better plant, richer 
in colour, is A. Triumfetti, which is not at present well 
known, though eminentl}' desirable. All are profuse 



A NEMONE—A NTH ERIC UM 



77 



bloomers. Flowering period, June-September. Easily 
increased by division. Height two feet to three feet. 




Fig. 20. — Cnttinqs of Double Arabis prepared for planting. 

Anthericum {St. Bruno's Lily). — Liliaceous plants of 
much beauty and charm. The indispensables for the 




Fig. 30. — The Cuttings Planted in a Box. 



border are A. liliastrum and A. L. major, known to 
science as Paradisea liliastrum. The plant is tuberous- 



78 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



rooted and revels in rich cool loam. The sweetly- 
scented Lily-like flowers are arranged on spikes two-and- 
a-lialf feet high, and are chastely pure and elegant. 
Flowers in June. Increased by di\'ision, preferably 
when dormant in early autumn, and by seeds, which are 
abundantly produced. 

Aquilegia {Columbine). — Whether in the ornamenta- 
tion of the flower border or in the cut state these occupy 




Fig. 31. — A Floweyi)ig Plant of Double Aiabis raised 
from a Cutting. 

a unique place. No hardy flower is more graceful or 
elegant ; few more easily managed or grown. Diflicult 
to increase by division, they come in their battalions 
from seeds, and should be so increased. Spring sowings 
should be made in warmth ; autumn sowings in drills 
in the open. Chrysantha is yellow, three feet to four feet. 
The coerulea hybrids in pink , rose, cream, yellow and scarlet 
are two feet high, and are a lovely race. Glandulosa 
and Stuartii are dwarfs, rich in colour and well suited 
for colonising in the rock garden. Flower in summer. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



79 







80 THE HARDY f LOWER HOOK 



Arabis {Rock Cress). — The common white Arabis is 
known to all. The plant mantles the earth with its leaf 
tufts, which in spring are enshrouded with white 
flowers. In the poorest of soil it rambles away apace ; 
for old walls or ruins it is excellent. The double white, 
A. albida fl.-pl. (Figs. 29, 30 and 31), is a modern intro- 
duction, with double flowers on miniature stock-like 
spikes. Flowers in spring. Propagated by cuttings. 

Artemisia {Wormwood). — The need for referring to 
this rather large group of weedy or economic plants 
arises by reason of the recent introduction, from Western 
China, of A. lactiflora, a species having creamy white 
inflorescences. To get the best results it should be 
planted in front of Holly, Yew, or any such dark-leaved 
subjects. Flowers July- August. Division. Any good 
garden soil. 

Asclepias [Butterfly Weed). — A. tuberosa is the only 
species of note for the hardy plant gardener. The 
stems are hairy, erect, two feet high ; the bright orange 
flowers in umbels disposed in a branched corymb. 
Flowers July- August. Prefers sandy soil or peat and 
loam. Increased by seeds. 

Aster {Starwort or Michaelmas Daisy). — The old- 
fashioned Michaelmas Daisy was a weed ; its modern- 
ised form a revelation of beauty with improvements 
everywhere (Fig. 32). The plants are of the easiest 
culture in good garden soil ; all are readily increased by 
division, preferably in spring. Cuttings root readily 
wheri young, and for such as the Italian Starwort (A. 
ameUus) constitute the best method of increase. Plant- 
ing may be done in spring or autumn. The Italian 
Starworts are of a uniform height of two feet, and in 
violet and reddish blue shades are most effective. (See 
Chapter IX. on grouping.) The Michaelmas Daisy 
proper now covers a vast field, and any small selection 
would of necessity omit not a few good ones. Those 
named, however, are indispensable to any garden. 
Beauty of Colwall, violet purple, the first double 
Michaelmas Daisy. Climax, bright violet blue, a great 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



81 




Fig. 33.— MICHAELMAS DAISY DESIRE, A BEAUTIFUL 
SMALL-FLOWERED VARIETY. 



82 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

acquisition. Chastity, white. Bianca, sprays of pure 
white. Desire (Fig. 33) of the ericoides set, small 
flowers, neat and elegant. Lil I'^ardell, silvery rose. 
Lustre, rosy lilac. Mrs. S. T. Wright, large rosy purple, 
excellent. Mrs. Frank Brazier, clear blue. St. Egwin, 
soft rose. Cordifolius Ideal and C. Photograph. Aster 
acris and A. subcoeruleus, two feet and one foot respec- 
tively, are also invaluable among dwarf-growing sorts. 

Astilbe [Goafs Beard). — A genus greatly enriched 
during recent years, both in colour and variety. One 
and all are suited to the cool, moist places of the garden, 
or to waterside areas, which they endow with much 
natural charm. The original species chinensis, japon- 
nica, rivularis, and Thunbergii, with the more modern 
A. Davidii, have, doubtless, contributed their quota to 
the fine hybrid race we now have, of which Ceres, Peach 
Blossom, Oueen Alexandra, avalanche and rubella are 
a few. Silver Sheaf, too, is excellent. Grandis, a giant 
six feet high, is a noble plant with nearly pure white 
plumes of blossoms. Flowers in July and August. 
Increase by division when dormant. 

Aubrietia [Rock-Cress or Alysson). — Carpeting plants 
of great beauty, suited to old ruins, edgings, wall, or 
rock gardening. As carpet plants to bulbs, other than 
those of great vigour, they are too heavy and mat-like 
in growth, and, moreover, root too deeply. These ever- 
green herbaceous plants are of the easiest culture in 
ordinary soil. When inclined to become straggling, 
prune them back closely after flowering with shears, and 
a few weeks later divide and replant. The older forms, 
e.g., Bougainvillea, grasca, Hendersonii and others, all 
varieties of the Purple Rock Cress, A. deltoidea, are 
now superseded by such as Dr. Mules, Fire King, 
Lavender, Leichthni, Prichard's A. I., and Mrs. Lloyd 
Edwards, size of flower and brilliant new colouring being 
added. Fresh young cuttings root readily when an inch 
or so long ; old wiry shoots that have flowered are 
useless for propagation. 

Bocconia [Plume Poppy). — Plants of distinguished 
bearing, having roundly heart-shaped, deeply lobed 



ASTILBE— CAMPANULA 83 



leaves and giant plumes of brownish flowers. Best 
suited to the wild garden, shrubbery, or beds in isola- 
tion. The two species, B. cordata and B. microcarpa, 
have much in common, and both are highly effective. 
Height six feet or mure. Flowers June-July. Increased 
by division in spring. 

Caltha {Marsh Marigold). — These are among the most 
brilliant of spring flowers for waterside or streamlet. 
Luxuriating in the fat mud of ditch bottoms, they are 
valuable for the artificial bog. Occasionally treated as 
aquatic plants, they are seen to better advantage as 
marginal subjects, where their tufts of glossy leaves and 
golden flowers render them ideal in May. C. palustris 
monstrosa, C. p. Tyermanni and C. polypetala, a fine 
single-flowered species, are the best. Increased by 
seeds and spring division. 

Campanula {Bellfloiver). — A genus alike rich in 
border kinds and those we associate with Alpines. 
Regarded collectively the first-named set prefer deep, 
well-enriched and cool soils or situations. The varieties 
of the Peach-leaved Bellflower, C. persicifolia, are par- 
ticularly prone to attacks by thrips when grown in dry 
situations or hot, sandy soils. Its best varieties are 
alba-plena, coronata, grandiflora, and Moerheimii, 
all white-flowered. Newry Giant and Porcelain are 
blue flowered singles of the same set. These rank from 
two to three feet high. The Carpathian Bellflower 
(C. carpatica) is rich in good things and in variety, the 
plants ranging from nine inches to eighteen inches high. 
All are of tufted habit and suited to the front row of the 
border. C. c. alba, C. c. pallida, C. c. pelviformis, C. c. 
Riverslea, and C. c. White Star are the best varieties. 
C. c. Robert Parker has much in common with the 
latter, the plant being of somewhat bolder habit. The 
Chimney Bellflower (C. pyramidalis) and its varieties 
deserve a place in every garden. Though frequently 
seen in greenhouse and conservatory, and usually re- 
garded as biennials, the plants are true perennials, and 
are most imposing — indeed, unique — when freely grouped 
in beds or near to shrubbery borders. The plants reach 



84 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

to six feet high, and the flowers are blue or white in bold 
columnar spikes. C. latifolia Burghalti, and C. 1. Van 
Houttei are hybrids about three feet high, with long blue 
pendent bells. C. Hendersoni, C. Fergusoni, and C. 
Hillside Gem are also of garden origin and of flower 
value in August and September. These are blue- 
flowered and from one-and-a-half feet to two feet high. C. 
lactiflora grows into a handsome bush of four feet high, 
and is smothered with pale blue flowers in late summer. 
Its variety, C. 1. celtidifolia, is also a handsome plant. 
C. glomerata dahurica, one-and-a-half feet, has terminal 
heads of Royal purple flowers. C. (Platycodon) grandi- 
flora is the so-called " Balloon flower." A most valu- 
able late summer flower. C. grandis is a very old plant, 
shy-flowering in some soils, though very effecti\'e when 
in good flower. It is two-and-a-half feet high, and 
flowers in July. Dwarfer sorts, suitable for edgings or 
informal borderings, should include pulla, pulloides, G. 
F. Wilson, muralis and pusilla in variety. These are 
but a fractional part of a great genus. All are increased 
readily by division in autumn and spring, by cuttings 
of the young shoots in spring and by seeds. (See 
general article on seed sowing, etc., p. 61.) 

Catananche {Blue Cupidone). — Wedded to the sim- 
plest cultural requirements there is all the charm of the 
" Everlastings " about these plants, the flowers of which 
may be dried for winter use. Everybody should grow 
the type, C. caerulea, and its variety bicolor. Height 
two feet. Easily raised from seeds in the open garden. 
Good for cutting ; distinct and attractive. (June-July.) 

Gentaurea [Cornflower or Knapiveed). — The annual 
Cornflower, C. Cyanea, is universally known and ad- 
mired. The varieties are easily raised from seeds. The 
best perennial kinds are C. Babylonica, silvery fohage 
and yellow flower-heads, four to five feet high. C. 
glastifolia, also yellow, with silvery leaves. C. macro- 
cephala, with almost thistle-like heads of golden yellow, 
three to four feet high, is a little too coarse for the or- 
dinary border. C. montana rubra is the best of the 
mountain Knapweeds. The plant is two feet high, the 



CATANANCHE— CHRYSANTHEMUM 85 

flower-heads rosy red. Excellent for cutting. C. deal- 
bata, with silvery foliage and rosy flower-heads ; and 
C. ruthenica, four feet, primrose yellow flowers and 
handsome foHage, are also desirable. Division in spring 
or autumn, and by seeds. Common garden soil. 

Centranthus {Valerian). — The " Red Valerian " (C. 
ruber) is the only species of merit, and this is valuable 
for its colour alone. The white variety is less attrac- 
tive. The plant thrives in chinks of walls, on old ruins, 
revels on chalk or limestone, and in the poorest of soils. 
Hardy, vigorous, showy and free. Height two feet. 
Seeds. 

Chelone {Turtle Head). — North American plants allied 
to Pentstemon. C. Lyoni and C. obliqua are the most 
worthy, and have pink and rose flowers respectively on 
stems nearly three feet high. There is a white variety 
of the latter. Division in early spring. The brihiant 
scarlet-flowered Pentstemon barbatus is frequently 
catalogued as Chelone barbata. 

Chrysanthemum {Ox-eye Daisy or Shasta Daisy). — The 
good varieties of tliese, which are now so plentiful in 
gardens, have probably been evolved from such species 
as C. lacustre, C. leucanthemum, and C. maximum. 
Their perfect hardiness is equalled by simple cul- 
tural requirements, freedom of growth and flowering. 
The varieties range from two feet to four feet in height. 
Their great vigour and spread of root-stock demands, if 
the best floral results are desired, biennial division. This 
is best done in early autumn or in spring. A broad belt 
in front of Holly or Yew hedge has a singularly good 
effect. All have white Marguerite-hke flower-heads. 
There are two types in general cultivation, viz. : those 
having narrow florets (petals), and those with broad 
ones. Davisi and Robinsoni are good examples of the 
first; King Edward VH., Mrs. Charles Lothian Bell — 
the largest of all — Progress, Triumph, Rev. H. Sanders, 
and The Speaker being typical of the latter. C. (Pyre- 
thrum) uliginosum is six feet high or more, and coming 
at Harvest Festival time is of much value. 



86 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

Cichorium [Chicory). — This native wildling (C. Intybus) 
is included because of the rare beauty of its rich corn- 
flower blue flowers. The plant, while not desirable, 
perhaps, in the choice border, is valuable in the wild 
places of tlie garden, and will take care of itself in the 
stoniest of soils. Propagated easily by seeds sown in 
the open garden in April or May. 

Cimicifuga [Bugbane or Snake-root). — Tall, vigorous 
growing perennial herbaceous plants whose feathery 
plumes or panicles of white flowers are very pretty in 
the late summer garden. In the near distance the plants 
are effective, hence are good in the shrubbery or skirting 
woodland places. The best border sorts are C. simplex 
and C. racemosa. Cool or moist soils are best for the 
last. C. americana and C. cordifolia are other good 
sorts. In some the flowers have an unpleasant odour. 

Convallaria majalis [Lily of the Valley). — Perhaps the 
sweetest and most popular flower on earth, albeit we 
are content to purchase it rather than to grow it for its 
worth. Or, if grown, it is in dense, almost impenetrable 
masses, and flowers are few. Plantations should be 
divided freely and replanted every four or fi^•e years. 
Starting with strong flowering single crowns, and 
arranging them six to eight inches apart each way, the bed 
may stand for ten years if annually mulched with manure 
and liberally treated with liquid manure. Loves cool 
places, shade, and the richest of soils. Prepare the bed 
deeply. October is the best planting time. The best 
varieties are Fortin and Victoria. 

Coreopsis [Tickseed). — Showy North American herbs, 
annual or perennial, the former usually known as Calliop- 
sis. The best perennial kinds are C. grandiflora, 
C. lanceolata, albeit after a good flowering they become 
exhausted and fresh seedlings should take their places. 
Height two feet or so ; flower-heads golden or rich yellow 
on slender wiry stems. Valuable for cutting. Raise 
from seeds annually or biennially. 

Coronilla. — The majority of tliis genus are of shrubby 
habit. Two at least are herbaceous, and invaluable as 



CICHORIUM—CYPRIPEDIUM 87 

trailing subjects, in the rock garden more particularly. 
C. iberica (Cappadocica) has clusters of golden-yellow 
pea-shaped flowers, and is most effective. C. varia has 
rose-coloured flowers. Spring division and seeds. 

Cortaderia {Pampas Grass). — Too well known to need 
description ; too meritorious to be omitted. C. 
(Gynerium) argenteum and its varieties are best. In- 
valuable in bold groups and in isolation, particularly on 
the lawn. They succeed best in light, well-drained yet 
rich soils. In cold districts the specimens should be 
tied up into a cone shape and protected with pea-sticks 
and bracken during winter. Raised from seeds or 
increased by division, preferably in spring. 

Crinum {Cape Lily). — These South African bulbous 
plants should be given a sheltered place apart from the 
herbaceous borders, such as the foot of a warm south 
wall where a three feet deep bed of soil, rich and well 
drained, should be prepared. In favoured places near 
the coast they are quite hardy ; elsewhere, winter pro- 
tection should be given. In planting keep the bulbs 
six inches below the surface. The best are C. capense 
(longifolium) , C. Powelli, C. P. album, and C. yemense. 
Increased by offsets and seeds. Dislike frequent 
disturbance. 

Cyclamen {Sow Bread). — If not suited to the border 
proper, the hardy Cyclamen possess a value of their own 
on the fringes of woodland places or in company with 
the larger growing Ferns. They appear to delight in the 
shelter and companionship of other plants, and revel in 
the deca5dng vegetable matter around. C. Coum, in 
variety, C. repandum (hederaefolium) , and C. europaeum 
are among the most beautiful. Plant in autumn. Propa- 
gated by seeds. 

Cypripedium {Lady's Slipper). — The finest of this race 
of hardy Slipper is the Moccasin Flower (Fig. 34), a 
wildling of the North American bogs and swamps. Its 
flowers are rose and white, and appear June- July. 
C. Calceolus (English Lady's Slipper) and C. pubescens 
have brown sepals and yellow Ijp. C. acaule (stemless 



88 



THE HARDY FLOWER ROOK 




Fig. 34.— THE MOCCASIN FLOWER (CYPRIPEDIUM 
SPECTABILE). 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



89 




Fig. 35.— A LARGE BED OF THE GIANT ASPHODEL 
OR EREMURUS. 



90 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

Lady's Slipper) has large, rosy-purple flowers. All are 
spring flowering. The first-named requires spongy peat, 
leaf mould and moisture, and is not averse to manure. 
The others do well in peat and loam in drier places. 
C. Calceolus is usually found growing in calcareous soils, 
but it does as well in ordinary peat and loam. Always 
plant in autumn. 

Delphiniums or Larkspurs. — See Part I., pages 
46 to 48. 

Dicentra or Dielytra [Bleeding Heart or Lyre Flower). 
■ — -The most beautiful species is D. spectabilis, which is 
susceptible to spring frosts. The established plant 
reaches three feet high, its arching racemes of pendent 
rose-coloured flowers being highly ornamental. It is 
largely grown in pots for the conservatory. I), eximia 
and D. formosa, one-and-a-half feet high, are much 
hardier, both have rosy flowers and fern-like leaves. 
Garden soil. Division in spring. 

Dictamnus [Fyaxinella or Biiriiing Bush). — Old- 
fashioned herbaceous perennials of great vigour and 
freedom of flowering, the established bushes reaching 
three feet high and as much through. The plants are 
slow growing, thriving best in deep, strong loam. 
Flowers red or white. 1). albus is the type, and D. a. 
himalaicus and D. a. purpureus are good forms. D. 
caucasicus, a fine plant, has affinity with the above. 
Sun or shade ; plant in spring or autumn. Division 
and seed. 

Dodecatheon [Americun Coivslip or Shooting Stars). — 
As unlike our English Cowslip as may be, these pretty 
North American plants more resemble Cyclamen 
clustered and pendent, on foot high stalks. They are 
rose-coloured, pink or white. Love cool and shady 
places, in peat and loam. There are several varieties, 
but those usually seen belong chiefly to I). Meadia. D. 
Jeffreyi is the strongest growing. Raised from seed, 
an interesting variety is secured. They are rather 
impatient of disturbance. 



DELPHINIUMS— EREMURUS 91 

Doronicum {Leopard's Bane). — Showy herbaceous 
plants of the easiest culture in common garden soils. 
The best and tallest variety is D, plantagineum excelsum, 
which attains a height of three feet or more. D. austria- 
cum and D. caucasicum are about two feet high. All 
are yellow flowered and give sheaves of flowers in spring. 
Increase by division after flowering. 

Echinacea {Purple Coiief lower). — The only species to 
be noted is E. purpurea, a rather stately herbaceous 
plant, three to four feet high. The florets are coloured 
reddish, and there are improved forms in nurseries. 
Easily grown in well-cultivated garden soils. Seeds and 
division in early spring. 

Echinops {Globe Thistle). — The Globe Thistles are both 
picturesque and ornamental, hence are suited for wood- 
land or shrubbery, and, occasionally, in beds in isolation. 
Height four to six feet, flowering in late summer. By 
reason of their distinctive beauty each kind should be 
grouped alone, E. bannaticus, grey-blue ; E. giganteus, 
silvery foliage, and globular steel-blue flower-heads ; 
E. Ritro, very handsome blue ; and E. spaerocephalus, 
silvery of leaf and whitish flower-heads, are the best. 
Division in spring, root cuttings, seeds. 

Epimedium {Barrenwori). —Fretty spring-flowering 
plants having Barberry-like leaves and yellow, white or 
red flowers. Associate well with the Fern-tribe and 
delight in shady places. E. coccineum has scarlet 
flowers and bronze-tinted leaves. E. pinnatum has 
nearly persistent foliage and yellow flowers. It is, 
perhaps, the best. Light, sandy or peaty soil. Division 
in spring. 

Eremurus {Giant Asphodel). — Noble herbaceous plants 
with columnar spires of flowers six feet to twelve feet 
high (Fig. 35). They inhabit Northern India, Persia, 
and Central Asia, and embrace white, flesh-coloured and 
yellow flowers. The many hybrid sorts, too, are very 
beautiful. Flower in June and July. They are most 
effective in groups near to woodland and shrubbery. 
Require deep and rich soils. Plant in October or 



92 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

November. By reason of their lateral root spread they 
are not well suited to the ordinary border. Some of the 
best are E. robustus, E. r. Elewesianus, pink ; E. hima- 
laicus, white ; E. Bungei, yellow ; E. Shelford, bronzy- 
yellow and buff ; and E. Warei, salmon and bronze. 
Seeds : Sow soon after ripening. 

Erigeron [Fleabane). — Excellent herbaceous plants of 
the easiest culture in good garden soil and for the most 
part free flowering. For border decoration, E. speciosus 
superbus and E. Quakeress are the best, and the twain 
are very profuse bloomers. The predominant colour is 
la\'ender blue in Michaelmas Daisy-like flower-heads. 
Height two feet. E. aurantiacus is less than one foot 
high ; colour orange. The former are easily increased 
by division, the latter by seeds. 

Eryngium {Sea Holly). — The culture and method of 
increase given for Echinops suit these exactly. The 
most ornamental of a beautiful race are E. giganteum 
(Ivory Thistle), and E. oliverianum, whose amethyst- 
blue stems and flower-heads attract everybody. This 
handsome subject attains three to four feet high. E. 
pandanifolium is a giant of eight feet high when in 
flower, and is best suited to the wild garden. 

Fritillaria {Crown Imperial). — From out of an exten- 
sive genus we select F. imperialis, stately bulbous-rooted 
herbaceous perennials of three to four feet high, afford- 
ing clustered heads of pendent yellow or rich brown 
flowers ; and the Snake's Head FritiUaries (F. melea- 
gris), which, in their chequered flowers of white or 
purple, are valuable in grassland or border. Both are 
of easy culture. Height one-and-a-half feet. Seeds. 

Funkia {Plantain Lily). — The glory of the " Plantain 
Lilies " is vested in Fortunei, Sieboldii and Sub-cordata 
syn. grandiflora, the establislied examples of which may 
reach a yard across and the same in height when in 
flower. They make handsome tub plants for terrace 
gardening. The blue or glaucous foliage of the first two 
named is very striking ; the last named is valuable in 



ERIGERON— GENTIAN A 93 



pots for conservatory. Its white flowers are sweet 
scented. Flower : August to October. Deep rich soil. 
Divide and replant in autumn. 

Gaillardia {Blanket Flower). — The popular name is 
neither suggestive nor good. There has been much im- 
provement in these showy herbs during recent years, 
the perennial sorts having their origin in G. aristata. 
Splendid strains are obtainable from seeds, which should 
be sown early in the year, and planted out in May for 
flowering a year later. The florets are coloured yellow 
and crimson. Some are almost wholly crimson. Lady 
Rolleston is self yellow, disc and all. Named sorts are 
numerous. The plants are of the easiest culture, and 
grow about three feet high. 

Galega {Goat's Rue). — Hardy, vigorous, free and pro- 
fuse-flowering herbaceous plants, luxuriating in quite 
poor soil. G. officinalis, lilac ; G. o. alba, white ; G. 
Hartlandi, a bicolored form ; G. His Majesty, clear 
mauve, and the finest of all, are good. Flower : July- 
September. Height four to five feet. Spring division 
is best, and not too rich a soil. 

Galtonia or Hyacinthus candicans {Cape Hyacinth). — 

A stately bulbous-rooted plant from South Africa. 
Flowers white, bell-like, pendent, abundantly produced 
on stems four to six feet high. Flowering period, July- 
August, but this with successional planting may be much 
extended. Fine for beds or border. Well-drained loam. 
Seeds. 

Gentiana {Gentianclla). — The garden Gentianella (G. 
acaulis) is beloved by all, but not all can grow it. Its 
stoloniferous shoots ramify best in light, sandy, peaty or 
vegetable soils, and in such the plant usually grows and 
flowers freely. Conversely it would appear to abhor 
close, ill-drained, tenacious clay soils. G. asclepiadea, 
the Willow Gentian, is a delightful plant for the wood- 
land, where it does splendidly in stony, sandy, or heath- 
like soil. May I plead that nobody will ever rob this 
plant of its grace and charm by tying it to sticks. 
Plant in autumn. Seeds. Division. 



94 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



Geranium {Crane's-bill). — The following belong to 
Geranium proper. G. armenum, purplish crimson ; G. 
grandiflorum, deep violet flowers ; and G. ibericum, 
rich purplish blue, are the best border kinds. Height 
two-and-a-half feet. G. Endressi, rose, one-and-a-half 
feet, is very pretty. Any position, and good garden 
soil. Division in spring or autumn. Seeds. 

Gerbera [Barberton or Transvaal Daisy). — This bril- 
liant flowering South African plant is only reliably 
hardy in this country near the sea or in favoured posi- 
tions at the base of a greenhouse wall, with winter 
protection. It may be grown with ease in the green- 
house, though its flower-heads lack the intense orange 
scarlet of those grown in the open. The plant re\'els in 
heat, and in a Cucumber house grows apace. Prefers 
peat and loam or sandy loam. Easily grown from seeds, 
which must be sown as soon as ripe. The species 
referred to is G. Jamesoni. There are many hybrids : 
yellow, rose, pink and other shades. The flow^ers are 
now being grown for market, and sell well. 

Geum {Avens). — ^These are useful and showy, as well 
as profuse flowering. All grow freely in well-cultivated 
soils. The best garden plants are the varieties of G. 
Chiloense, usually catalogued as G. coccineum. Of 
these, the double scarlet-flowered Mrs. J. Bradshaw and 
miniatum are best. G. Heldreichi, orange ; G. H. 
superbum, reddish orange ; and the varieties of G. 
montanum are also excellent. The last has golden 
yellow flowers, and is one foot high. The others are 
one-and-a-half feet to two-and-a-half feet. Division in 
spring. 

Gynerium argenteum {Pampas Grass). — See Corta- 
deria. 

Gypsophila {Gauze Flower). — G. paniculata, and its 
double form G. p. fl.-pl., are both in demand by the 
florist decorator, and are valuable in the cut state. They 
are more useful than attractive. Height two-and-a-half 
feet. The type species is easily raised from seeds, the 
double one should be increased by careful division, by 



GERANIUM— HELIOPSIS 95 

heel cuttings in early spring, and by root 
cuttings. — (See Chapter X.) 

Helenium {Sneeze-weed). — A genus of useful free- 
flowering perennials, the most important being the 
varieties of H. autumnale. The specific name is some- 
what misleading, as not a few are in full beauty before 
the season indicated. All are of the easiest culture in 
good garden soils. In height they range from six feet 
in the case of the type to one-and-a-half feet in H. a. 
pumilum: grandicephalum striatum (syn. autumnale 
striatum), Riverslea Beauty and Riverton Gem are 
the best of the tall growers ; pumilum and its variety 
magnificum being the best of the dwarf varieties. There 
are reddish flowered sorts, of which Cupreum, two feet, 
is the best. H. Bolanderi two-and-a-half feet, orange- 
yellow, with dark disc, is quite the earliest of its race to 
flower. Increased to any extent by division in spring 
or autumn, and by root cuttings and seeds. 

Helianthus (Sunflower). — The perennial Sunflowers 
are of two types, those with compact stay-at-home root 
stocks and those with travelling or stoloniferous root 
systems. The latter are variations of the " Prairie 
Sunflower" (H. rigidus), and repay for annual trans- 
planting in earliest springtime. Varieties of H. multi- 
florus may remain two years or longer. Its best varieties 
are *Bouquet d'or, Maximus, and *Soleil d'or together 
with the type. The best of the H. rigidus group are 
Miss Mellish and Wolley Dod. H. sparsifohus is a giant 
in the same way. H. Mollis and H. tomentosus have 
woolly leaves. H. orgyalis is the willow-leaved Sun- 
flower whose miniature flower heads occur in a rather 
dense panicle. This makes a fine specimen in isolation. 
It is October flowering. All are good autumn plants, 
single flowered except those marked thus *, and yellows 
Height four to six feet. Increase by division in spring 
or autumn, and by cuttings. 

Heliopsis {Orange Simfloiver). — Deeper in colour, with 
smaller flower-heads and a more refined habit than the 



96 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

Sunflowers. Amenable to llie same treatment. Height 
tour feet. July-August. 

Helleborus [Chrisliiuis Rose). -'Hie most precious of 
hardy herbaceous winter flowers (Fig. 36), and as such 
merits the attention of all. Essential cultural details 
are deep sandy loam — three feet of it where possible — 
perfect drainage, light shade, and, greatest essential of all, 
September or October transplanting. It is fatal to 
success to plant these in big lumps intact ; they must 
be freely broken up. It is equally bad to lift and pot — 
and so-call " force " for winter work and then tumble 
them back into their old quarters. The leafless plants 
which followthistreatment are its greatest condemnation. 
Need one say more ? The following are \'arieties of the 
Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger), and all are desirable ; 
Altifolius (maximus), very large, November ; Major, 
or Bath variety, and Scoticus, December ; Angustifolius 
and Mdme. Fourcade, January. Riverstoni and St. 
Brigid are also good. The flowers are white, flushed 
externally with rose. The Lenten Roses (H. orientalis) 
and others are of a different class, and submit to trans- 
planting in spring or autumn. They delight in the thin 
shade of hazel and other twiggy trees, and the shelter 
thus afforded assists in retaining their foliage, which is 
a great gain. Strong loam, or loam over chalk, suits 
them well. They are from one foot to one-and-a-half 
feet high ; flowers white, rose or purplish and copiously 
spotted. Interesting and beautiful in woodland and 
shrubbery places. 

Hemerocallis {Day Lily). — Strong, vigorous growing 
herbaceous perennials, beautiful, in large degree refined, 
and all free flowering. The dwarfer kinds as flava. 
Apricot, Dumortieri (rutilans), Middendorfiana and 
Thunbergi are from two feet to three feet high, and 
give a succession of yellow trumpet-shaped flowers from 
May to August. The bolder sorts, such as fulva and 
its varieties Kwanso and K. fl.-pl., with disticha, are 
four feet high and well suited to woodland or shrubbery. 
Aurantiaca major, Aureole, Citrina, Dr. Regel, luteola. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



97 




98 THE HARDY 1' LOWER iiOOK 



and Sir Michael represent the modern side of this 
\'aluable race, and are \'ery handsome. All ha\'e arching 
leaves in tufts, and are hardy in the extreme. Increase 
by dix'ision in autumn or sprinf:^. Good border soil suits 
them well. 

Hepatica. —(See Anemone Hej)atica). 

Hesperis (Rocket). — The typical species (II. matronalis) 
is worthy of a place in the wild garden only, where its 
fragrance would be esteemed. The double white and 
double lilac, H. m. fl.-pl. and H. m. lilacina plena respec- 
tively, are among the oldest of border perennials. 
They are two-and-a-half feet or more high. Prefer a 
strong holding loam and a cool situation generally. 
The plants ha\-e giant Stock-like pyramids of flowers in 
June and July. May be increased by di\-ision, though 
more freely from cuttings in late summer. The plants 
require careful attention or they exhaust themselves 
bv flowering. 

Heuchera [Alum Root). — The coming of the brilliant 
scarlet H. sanguinea from New Mexico, nearly 30 3'ears 
ago, was a great gain, and, in conjunction with the other 
species, it has given a race of plants valuable alike for 
grace and ornament. The plants range from two feet 
to nearly three feet high at flowering time, and are at 
home in any good, light, loamy soil. The varieties 
splendens and Walker's variety are improvements on 
the type, while the modern race of hybrids micrantha, 
sanguinea and others are invaluable. The plants 
form a cushioned tuft of leaves, above which the elegant 
flower sprays issue. Seeds. Division in spring. Flowers 
July- August. 

Hollyhock. — See Althaea (rosea). 

Iberis [Candytuft). — The perennial Candytufts are 
virtually under-shrubs, but of much ser\'ice in the border 
or rock garden. The forms of I. sempervirens are good 
trailing plants, while I. correaefolia, a valuable hybrid of 
garden origin, is best as a marginal plant. I. gibraltarica 
is a large-flowered kind, not reliably hardy. It is, 
however, easily raised from seeds. I. superba, a selected 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



99 




Fig. 37.— A BEAUTIFUL BORDER OF GERMAN OR 
FLAG IRISES. 



100 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



form of the first named, has \'ery large heads of flowers. 
Of quite easy culture. Increased by young cuttings in 
August. Flowers in spring. (See Fig. 26, page 67.) 

Incarvillea {Perouiial Trumpet Floiecr). — I. Delavayi is 
a modern introduction from China, and a plant of dis- 
tinction and merit. From a ground tuft of arching, 
shining, pinnate leaves two to three feet long, the flower 
scapes rise three to four feet high. The flowers are 
trumpet-shaped or Bignonia-like and coloured rosy red. 
The plant dies completely down, hence its position should 
be marked. The fleshy roots are very brittle. Perfectly 
hardy and easily raised from seeds. I. grandiflora is a 
superb dwarf kind, of a foot high, with rosy-crimson 
flowers ; a grand plant in the choice border or rock 
garden. Sandy loam. Flowers June- July. 

Inula [Fleabane). — The Georgian Fleabane, 1. glandu- 
losa, may be likened to a golden yellow, single-flowered 
Chrysanthemum, four inches across. The leaves are 
densely woolly. Height two feet. June- July. It is 
from the Caucasus. I. grandiflora and I. Royleana are 
Himalayan, and yellow flowered. Garden soil. Division 
in spring. Root cuttings, seeds. 

Iris [Flag or Fleur de Luce). — The genus Iris is unique 
among hardy herbaceous plants, unique in the delicate 
colours of its flowers, endless in its extent and variability, 
unapproachable in a season of flowering, which takes at 
least six months to exhaust. Hence, one might garden 
with Irises alone and still find in this remarkable family 
an inexhaustible store of pleasure and change. Quite 
recently a sumptuous monograph has appeared, of which 
Mr. Rickaton Dykes is the author, and only in some such 
way is it possible to treat of so vast a subject. To con- 
sider even in brief detail the most worthy of the genus 
would necessitate more room than is being devoted to 
this entire volume, hence we refrain from the impossible. 
For present purposes, therefore, it must suffice if we 
treat of the three main indispensable groups, viz. : the 
bulbous or " Xiphions," the " Flags" and their allies, and 
the great Clematis-flowered Irises (I. laevigata) of Japan. 



INCARVILLEA—IRIS LMVIGATA 101 



Irises, the Bulbous. — Popularly known as " Spanish " 
and " English," Iris Xiphium, and I. Xiphioides respec- 
tively, of the botanist, are June- July flowering, and 
grow two feet or so high. They are in blue, white, 
bronze, violet, porcelain, yellow and other shades, are 
much valued for cutting because of their artistic bearing, 
and are highly ornamental in beds. To beauty and 
utility must be added the great attribute of cheapness ; 
hence, they should be grown by all. They prefer light, 
sandy, well-drained soils, and should be planted in 
October and November, setting the roots four inches 
deep in the earth. The bulbs of the " Spanish " varieties 
are so small that four inches or five inches asunder 
will afford them ample space at flowering time ; the 
" English " should have almost twice the room. 

Flag Irises. — These comprise the so-called "German " 
Irises (Fig. 37), which have been derived from such 
species as pallida, neglecta, squalens, amoena, variegata 
and others, and collectively they are perfectly hardy, 
free-flowering and amenable to ordinary garden soils 
that have been well cultivated and enriched. The best 
planting season is March-April, though they are planted 
at other times, yet not without loss. It is a mistake to 
plant big clumps of these, single crowns or rhizomes 
(Figs. 38 and 39) are infinitely the best. A dozen such 
would make a group four feet across, and everyone 
would flower when established and remain good for three 
or more years. The pallida varieties are among the 
finest of them all, and such as dalmatica, Her Majesty, 
and Ed. Michel are particularly fine. Queen of May, 
Gracchus, Darius, Chelles, Mdme. Chereau, Mrs. C. 
Darwin, Thorbecke, Dr. Bernice, Kharput, Oriflame, 
and Ma Mie are a distinct and good set. 

I. laevigata or I. Kaempferi. — These are the "Japanese 
flags," and are characterised by large petalled flowers 
ranging from six to tweh'e inches across. Great num- 
bers are sent each year from Japan, though chiefly from 
Tokyo, Hondo, and the gardens adjacent to the river 
Sumida. They are moisture-loving, though doing well 
in deeply-tilled, richly-manured soils. Light to medium 



102 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



loam is best with abundance of leaf soil and cow manure. 
Adhesive clay soils are abhorrent to them. Reputedly 
water-loving they are immeasurably superior in growth 
and finer in flower when the plants are a foot or more 
above water level and the roots in rich vegetable soil. 




Fig. 3S. — Portion of an Old Plant oj German Iris. 



The j)lants have a most voracious appetite, which should 
be duly catered for. The i)lants resent frequent dis- 
turbance. The best planting season is April. These are 
the most sumptuous of all the Irises, and come as a great 
and fitting final in July, ^^arieties are numerous ; the 
self-colours are the most effective. Division : seeds. 



IRIS LMVIGATA—KNIPHOFIAS 



103 



Kniphofias, or Tritomas {Red Hot Pokers).— These, 
also known as Torch Lily and Flame Flower, are among 
the noblest of perennials and unequalled for their high 
ornamental value. They appear indifferent to heavy or 
Hght soils, though a well-drained one is almost essential. 
The great errors made in their cultivation are cutting 
them down in autumn or early winter and dividing and 
transplanting them at the same periods. Should much 




Fig. 39. — Single Crowns of Geyman Iris ready for Planting. 



frost ensue the plants will most likely perish. Fine 
clumps of them merit tying up after the manner sug- 
gested for the Cortaderia (Pampas Grass), which see on 
p. 87. Early spring is the best time to divide and re- 
plant. The plants vary from four feet to eight feet 
high. The varieties of K. aloides are still among the 
best, glaucescens, grandiflora, and grandis being hand- 
some and distinct. These are giants in their way, and 
to them John Benary should be added. All have 



104 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

brilliant .orange scarlet spikes of flowers. Nelsoni and 
Macowanii are beautiful miniatures and less hardy, while 
Gnldelse and Solfaterre are in the same way. 

Lathyrus {Perennial Pea). — The varieties of L. lati- 
folius are the most important. Two, albus and The 
Pearl, are white flowered, and the last-named is a superb 
sort. The plants are deep rooting, and will descend to 
three feet or so, hence the soil should he well prepared. 
Splendens has rosy red flowers. These have an ascend- 
ing or climbing habit, and may attain six feet or eight 
feet high. They are very profuse flowering. L. grandi- 
florus and L. rotundifolius are other species of merit. 
The flowers are rose coloured and appear in June and 
July. These may be increased by division. The vari- 
eties of L. latifolius are increased by seeds and by 
cuttings secured with a "heel" (see Chapter X., 
page 66) in early spring. 

Liatris {Snake-root). — A small genus of North Ameri- 
can perennial herbs, with rosy purple flower-heads 
arranged in long dense columnar spikes. L. graminifolia 
dubia is the finest variety, and is six feet high. L. 
elegans (Blazing Star), L. pycnostachya (Kansas Gay 
Feather) , and L. spicata are dwarf er. Increased by care- 
ful division in spring and by seeds. 

Lilium {Lily). — The genus Lilium is at once the most 
diverse in form and variety, the most sumptuous, 
fascinating ; anon, fastidious and tantalising to the 
cultivator, of any of the many races of hardy bulbous 
flowers. It could hardly be otherwise, seeing the wide 
geographical distribution of the genus. Lily species 
and varieties come to us from many lands, though the}' 
are essentially northern-world plants ; China, Japan, 
Europe, Canada, the forests and mountains of California, 
Siberia, and the mighty Himalayas each contributing 
its quotd among others. Hence, not a little of their 
diversity of form and character, and possibly also a little 
of their fickleness. Herein is work for the earnest 
student of the flower who, with fuller knowledge, might 
presently divine their needs and learn much of 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



105 




Fig. 40.— A GROUP OF MADONNA. LILIES WITH A 
BACKGROUND OF DARK GREEN FOLIAGE. 



1U6 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

their vagaries and caprices when under cultivation in 
the British Isles. In Nature, doubtless, the plants are 
more or less freely reproduced from seeds — we have 
proof of this in the marked variability of certain species. 
Let us take the lesson to heart, and do likewise where we 
can. In Nature, too, some inhabit dry woods, others 
veritable swamps, others rocks and hills, and others the 
richer soils of the valleys, hence the impossibility of 
succeeding with all in any one British garden. For 
those best suited to our circumstances, howe^'er, a few- 
general hints may be given that may pro\'e helpful. 
Lilies, Cultural Hints on. — Generally the stem rooting 
kinds and their varieties, e.g., auratum, speciosum, 
croceum, Davuricum, Henryi, japonicum, umbellatum, 
and longiflorum delight in richly manured soils. Some, 
like speciosum, re\'el in manure abo\'e and below the 
bulbs. Such as these should be planted si.x inches or 
more deep. These, too, provided that basal root action 
follows the planting, are more quickly established. 
The non-stem rooting kinds, such as chalcedonicum, 
Martagons, candidum, and others, require more time 
to establish, and being dependent upon one root action 
alone, i.e., basal, do not flower in the year of planting 
unless the bulbs are of the largest size. Another set, 
pardalinum, canadense, superbum (Swamj) Lily), and 
others revel in rich vegetable soils, peat, leaf-mould, and 
moisture. Not a few others, such as Krameri, rubellum, 
Hansoni and Marhan, prefer the shelter and root com- 
panionship of shrubs, which, while insuring comparative 
root-dryness at all seasons, also safeguard the young 
stem growth from frosts in spring. Stately growers like 
candidum and its variety, c. speciosum, with testaceum 
and such sturdy members of the race as croceum, 
umbellatum, tigrinum and Martagon, grow quite well 
in the open border. Regarded generall}', the Lily 
prefers light, well-drained soils, the moisture-loving and 
Swamp Lilies excepted. Martagon album and chalce- 
donicum are among those which do not object to heavj', 
loamy soils, though they certainly object to frequent 
disturbance. Plant in early autumn where possible. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

I 



107 



F 



%M 



g'^^t-'s. 




Fig. 41. —CLUMP OF LILY BULBS READY FOR TRANSPLANTING. 




Fig. 42.— HOW TO ARRANGE LILY BULBS FOR PLANTING. 



108 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



Sound imported bulbs of auratum may be planted in 
February and IMarch. The Madonna Lily, L. candidum, 
should be planted in August, preferably where it can 
have a dark background of evergreens (Fig. 40). The 
varieties of longiflorum are not a permanent success in 
the open garden unless in favoured places. They are 
valuable for pots and require generous treatment. 
Lilies are increased by means of seeds, sow as soon as 
ripe ; by scales, the fleshy parts of the bulbs sown in sand 
and cocoanut fibre ; by bulblets in some instances, and 
by division (Fig? 41 and 42). 

Lilies, The Best Garden kinds are those of thearchehrion, 
isolirion, and Martagon or Turk's Cap groups. The 
first-named includes auratum, speciosum, tigrinum and 
Henryi. Of the auratums platyphyllum is the finest ; 
it is vigorous, handsome and tall, a \-eritable peer among 
its fellows. It is five to six feet high. Loam and peat, or 
rich sandy loam. July- August flowering. The speciosums 
flower in September, and are four to five feet high. 
Album Kraetzeri and album Novum are white ; cruen- 
tum, macranthum, melpomene, and magnificum are rich 
coloured and highly ornamental. Richly cultivated 
soils. Henryi is a distinct and handsome orange- 
coloured species, six feet high. Same treatment as the 
last. The Tiger Lilies are accommodating border sorts, 
and, moreover, may be increased freety by means of 
the bulblets on the stems. 

The isolirion group have the flowers erect as in the 
common orange garden Lily, L. croceum. Dauricum, 
umbellatum and elegans all l3elong to this set, and range 
from one-and-a-half feet to three feet high. Some of 
the elegans set are very dwarf and are best grown in 
pans in the greenhouse. The varieties are rather 
numerous. Those of the three first-named are sturdy 
and vigorous and increase freely. 

The Martagons or Turk's Cap Lilies are \'aluable and 
highly ornamental. Chalcedonicum, pomponum and 
p. verum are brilliant scarlet, two-and-a-half feet 
high. July-August. Hansoni and Humboldti are rich 



LILIES— LOBELIA 109 



yellow, spotted with black, four to five feet. July. 
Monadelphum var Szovitzianum (colcliicum) is a grand 
yellow-flowered Lily and one of the earliest to bloom. 
It is of great vigour and freedom of flowering. Height 
three to five feet. Martagon is purplish though variable. 
M. album is white. M. dalmaticum is purplish-black. 
All are graceful and free. July. Height three to five 
feet. Pyrenaicum is yellow, two-and-a-half feet, and 
all are copiously spotted. Canadense, Burbanki, parda- 
linum and superbum are delightful members of this set 
and good garden Lilies to boot. They love rich veget- 
able soils, peat, and moisture, and are attractive in cool 
woodland shade. 

L. giganteum is a noble kind from the Himalayas, 
rising to ten feet or more when in flower. The great 
pendent flowers are white stained with crimson. This 
species is only satisfactory when raised from seeds. 
Seedlings take six to eight years to flower. The seed- 
lings should be planted in their permanent positions at 
three years old. Offsets are given off after flowering, 
and these should be grown on again. 

L. candidum, or the Madonna Lily (Fig. 44), requires 
a warm, sunny position in rather poor soil. Its dark 
stemmed form, L. c. speciosum, is a grand plant, six feet 
or more high. Both are indispensable to the garden, 
and both are prone to the Lily disease, as is also L. tes- 
taceum (excelsum), the Nankeen Lily (Fig. 43). These 
should be sprayed fortnightly with sulphide of potas- 
sium, one ounce to two gallons of water, from early 
June till flowering begins. 

Lily of the Valley. — See Convallaria. 

Linum [Flax] — These are chiefly of graceful habit. 
Austriacum, narbonense and perenne have sky-blue 
flowers, and are one-and-a-half feet high. Campanula- 
tum and flavum are yellow, dwarfer and more bushy. All 
succeed in loamy soils and are easily raised from seeds. 

Lobelia {Cardinal Flower). — The herbaceous LobeUas 
are of great utility and beauty, and flower in late 
summer and autumn. The varieties of cardinaUs are 



IK) 



rilE HARDY I'lA)\Vi:i< HOOK 




THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



111 




112 77//: HARDY 1' LOWER BOOK 

characterised by green foliage ; those of fulgens by 
leaves of a bronzy crimson colour. Both have flowers 
of exceeding brilliancy, scarlet, vermilion, crimson- 
scarlet and the like. We have no other hardv garden 
flowers of such exceeding richness and \ividness of 
colour. Huntsman, Firefly, Gloire de St. Anne's and 
Queen Victoria are distinctive forms of L. fulgens, four 
to six feet high. In nature cardinalis is a true bog 
plant, the other species delighting in wet or moist soils. 
L. syphilitica is also moisture loA'ing. Its flowers are 
purple, blue or violet. L. Gerardi is a hybrid of much 
value, between fulgens Queen Victoria and syphilitica. 
These are three to four feet high. Careful di\-isi()n in 
spring, and seeds. 

Lupinus {Lupine). — L. polyphyllus and its white and 
rose varieties are among the finest of hardy plants, 
distinct of leaf and handsome of flower. Height five to 
six feet ; flowers early summer. Easily increased by 
seeds and by division. The type has se\'eral other 
varieties. Nootkatensis is a much dwarfer species, two 
feet or rather more, and flowers in May and June. It is 
amenable to the same treatment. 

Lychnis (Campion). — The single scarlet Lychnis 
chalcedonica, three to four feet, is, undoubtedly, the 
finest of this group. Easily raised from seeds, and merit- 
ing the attention of all. Its double varieties, scarlet 
and white, must be increased by division or heel cuttings 
in spring (see page 63). The last is of poor quality. 
For garden purposes Bungeana, grandiflora, and fulgens 
have much in common, and might possibly prove to be 
geographical variations of one species. Those cultivated 
as Haageana are practically identical with the first of 
these. Flowers large, scarlet, w'hite or rose-pink, in 
terminal clusters on plants one to three feet high. They 
incline to tuberous roots, and slugs are very fond of 
them (see Pests, Chapter XL). Coronaria, or " Crowned 
Campion," two feet high, is a showy border plant. Seeds. 
L. vespertina plena (alba plena), double white Campion, 
three feet, is best increased by early spring cuttings. 



L UP IN US—NA RCISS US 113 

The varieties of Viscaria may be increased by cuttings 
and di\'ision, both in early spring. Height one-and-a- 
half feet. Heel cuttings only should be employed. 

Meconopsis {Himalayan Poppy). — It was no part of 
my original intention to touch upon plants of biennial 
duration only, though it is departed from here because 
of the exceptional beauty of two species, viz., M. integri- 
folia from the China-Thibet borderland, and M. 
Wallichi of the Himalayas. Both occur at great alti- 
tudes, 11,000 to 15,000 feet, and are much esteemed. 
The first has great saucer-like flowers, coloured pale 
yellow. Height two feet. The other has a noble 
pyramid of pale blue flowers, six feet high. Essential 
cultural items are rich vegetable soils and quick growth 
from the seedling stage onwards. Sow the seeds within 
a month of ripening in a temperature of 45 degrees. 
Cold frame treatment is often dangerous. Long keeping 
of the seeds in the dry state may be fatal to success. 
Don't coddle ; treat liberally. Don't bury the seed. 
Fine sand of the thickness of a shilling will be ample. 

Monarda {Bergamot). — Fragrant of leaf and brilliant of 
flower, the Oswego Tea, M. didyma, should be grown by 
all. Cambridge Scarlet is a good form of it. Height two- 
and-a-half feet. Good garden soil anywhere. Division 
to any extent, also cuttings. 

Montbretias or Tritonias. — The modern improvements 
of these bring them into the front rank of early autumn 
border flowers. They are also valuable in the cut state. 
The old way of retaining the plants permanently in the 
border was wrong. Infinitely better results follow 
lifting in autumn and replanting strong single corms in 
March. Give them a warm position and rich, well- 
drained soils. In their warm shades of orange-red and 
crimson they are unique. Prometheus, Norvic, Lord 
Nelson, King Edmund, George Davison, Westwick, 
and Star of the East are some of the best. All are 
delightful in beds or borders. 

Narcissus [Daffodil). — ^It is hoped to deal more or less 
exhaustively with these in a separate volume to be 
published later. 



114 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 




Fie:. 45. 



-THE ASIATIC BELL-FLOWER, OSTROWSKIA 
MAGNIFICA. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK - 115 




Fig. 46.— ORIENTAL POPFY JENNY MAWSON. 



116 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



Nymphaea [Water Lily). — These, like the Daffodils, 
merit a volume alone, so indispensable are thej^ to the 
ornamentation of lake or pond. They afford, indeed, 
life and character to the surface of the water, and are a 
great charm through summer and autumn. The best 
way to plant is to secure their roots (rhizomes) in baskets 
of rich soil, and sink them into position. Varieties may 
be obtained suitable for dee]:) or shallow water. March 
and April are good times for planting. Division. Seeds. 

ffinothera [Evening Primrose). — The best of the 
prostrate or trailing growers are acaulis, caespitosa 
(marginata), and missouriensis. The former have white, 
pink touched, fragrant flowers ; the latter pale yellow. 
Fruticosa, Youngii and glauca, yellow ; speciosa, white, 
and its variety rosea ; display a slight sub-shrubb}' 
tendency. These are day bloomers. Border soil, cut- 
tings and di^■ision in spring. 

Onopordon [Cotton Thistle). — Majestic, thistle-like 
plants, suitable for the wild garden. Acanthium is the 
Scotch Thistle. Bracteatum and polycephalum are 
giants of eight feet high ; silvery foliage and rosy purple 
flower heads. Seeds. Plant seedlings early. 

Ostrowskia [Asiatic Bell-flower). — A noble plant with 
fleshy, brittle, carrot-like roots that descend deeply in 
the earth ; hence large plants require handling with the 
greatest care. Requires a warm situation and loamy 
soil interspersed with old mortar. The giant flowers 
are about six inches across and are pale mau\'e and white 
(Fig. 45). Raise from seeds and plant early in per- 
manent positions. 

Paeonia. — See page 42. 

Papaver [Poppy). — The eastern Poppy and its ahies 
are a great race, the colours brilliant or gorgeous in the 
extreme. They are deep tap-rooted subjects, well suited 
to the border and of easy culture. Raise from seeds or 
by root cuttings in the case of selected varieties. Prince 
of Orange, Mrs. Marsh, Queen Alexandra, Lady Roscoe, 
Beauty of Livermere, Jenny Mawson (Fig. 46), and 
Mephistopheles are good sorts. 



NYMPHMA—PLATYCODON ~ 117 

Pentstemon {Beard Tongue). — Apart from those re- 
ferred to under florists' flowers, p. 52, are numerous 
species, of which barbatus, and its variety Torreyi, 
scarlet, are among the most decorative. Height 
four to five feet. Other valuable kinds are confertus, 
var. coerulea purpurea, Azureus, glaber, violet-blue ; 
heterophyllus, bright blue ; and coboea, dark lilac, three 
feet high. Not a few of the handsomest of the species, 
natives of California, are insufftciently hardy in this 
country. All are increased readily by soft cuttings in 
spring, and by seeds. 

Phlox. — See page 48. 

Phygelius [Cape Figwort). — This briUiant flowered 
plant, P. capensis, grows some three or four feet high, the 
pendent scarlet flowers being borne freely on branching 
racemes. The plant loves sun-heat and drought, and 
may be given the hottest position of the garden, viz., 
adjacent to a south wall. Near the sea it forms bushes 
sub-shrubby in character, and is highly ornamental. In 
northern districts it is often cut to the ground by frost. 
Soft cuttings in spring root readily. Division is quite 
easy. 

Physalis {Winter Cherry). — For many years we were 
content with the original species P. Alkekengi, which 
is now almost replaced by the hybrid Bunyardi (Alke- 
kengi X Francheti) and by the Japanese Francheti, a 
modern introduction. The flowers are insignificant, 
greater value being attached to the brilliant, orange-red, 
bladder-like calyces or" Lanterns," so much in vogue in 
winter decoration. Seeds and division to any extent. 

Phytolacca {Virginian Poke). — P. decandra is a fine 
plant for shrubbery or woodland, and is six to ten feet 
high. The flowers are at first white, then rose coloured, 
on cylindrical spikes, and are succeeded in autumn by 
dense clusters of blackish-purple fruits. Seeds. 

Platycodon {Chinese Bell Flower). — Handsome late 
summer and autumn-flowering perennials, allied to the 
Bell-flowers (Campanula) ; from one foot to two feet high. 



118 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



The taller ones require a little support early to prevent 
their fallinf^ about. All are varieties of the Chinese 
grandiflorum, which has violet-blue flowers. Album is 
nearly white ; Mariesii is deep blue and dwarf. Careful 
division in spring, though seeds are much the best. 

Polemonium [Jacob's Ladder). — P. humile Kichard- 
sonii is perhaps the most effective of the blue-flowered 
border kinds. Height two feet. Coerulea is also blue, 




Fig. 47. — An Old Polyanthus Plant ready 
for Division. 

and album is white flowered. Confertum variety melli- 
tum, creamy white, is suitable for the rock garden. 
Flavum is washed out yellow. Seeds and division. 

Polygonatum [Solomon's Seal). — The common species 
is multiflorum ; the most ornamental is latifolium and 
its variety commutatum. P. racemosum is highly orna- 
mental and somewhat scarce. Valuable for woodland 
shade and forcing for conservatory decoration. Height 
three to four feet. Arching stems of creamy white, 
drooping fragrant flowers. 



POLEMONIUM— PRIMULA 



119 



Polygonum {Knot-iveed). — ^The strong growers, cuspi- 
datum and sachalinense, are fine woodland plants ; 
Baldschuanicum is a lovely shrubby climber; the dwarfer 
species are best in the rock garden. 

Potentilla {Cinqitefoil). — The best border sorts are the 
florists' varieties, which, at flowering time, are two feet 
high or more. The plants have a tufted leaf growth like 
the Strawberry, succeed well in cultivated garden soils, 
are readily increased by division in spring and by heel 



*f-<-r^ \ 




Fig. 48. — Divided Portions ready for Planting. 

cuttings at the same period. These cuttings should be 
inserted in a cold frame ; heat is opposed to their well 
being. California and Dr. Andre are yellow ; Louis 
Van Houtte, chestnut red ; Mars, maroon ; Victor 
Lemoine, vermilion and yellow ; Wm. Rollison, scarlet, 
shaded orange. All are semi-double. 

Primula {Primrose).- — The vast majority of the species 
are good rock garden plants, the best border sorts (apart 
from the Polyanthuses, which should find a place in 
every garden, and which are so easily raised from seeds 
sown in spring or late summer, or by division of old 
plants after flowering) (Figs. 47 and 48) being the forms 



120 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



of denticulata, which include cashmeriana, Sieboldi 
(cortusoides of catalogues), pulverulenta, rosea, and 
japonica. The first-named are content in rich border 
soils ; Sieboldi revels in moisture and richh' manured 
soils in sun or shade ; }:)ulverulenta, three to four feet 
high, is a grand bog garden plant ; while rosea and 
japonica revel in rich soils in shady moist places or 
where their root fibres just reach to the water's edge. 
Where moisture is not at hand its near equivalent, shade, 
should be regarded as essential. With the exception of 
Sieboldi varieties, which are best increased by di\'ision 
after flowering, all the others may be raised from seeds, 
which, if sown soon after ripening, vegetate freely. The 
seeds should be covered very lightly with soil. Self- 
sown seedUngs often come up in hundreds near the plants 
without any covering being afforded. This lesson 
should not be ignored. All the Primulas may be in- 
creased by root cuttings (see page 67). 

Pulmonaria {Lungwort). — These are worthy plants, 
because of their early spring effects of leaf and blossom. 
They succeed in any good garden soil. The best are 
angustifolia azurea, and arvernense, which are blue- 
flowered, and of much merit. Saccharata has rose 
flowers and mottled leafage. Height one foot. Readily 
increased by division after flowering. 

Pyrethrum. — See page 53. 

Ranunculus {Buttercup ; Crowfoot). — The Fair j\laids 
of France (R. aconitifolius fl.-pl.) is the best border kind. 
It is tuberous rooted and about two feet high. Delights 
in rich moist ground. Flowers in early summer. The 
Persian and other Ranunculi of the florists, R. asiaticus, 
are rich in colour variety and valuable in masses or beds. 
The double flowers are very formal looking, and were 
much esteemed by the old florists. In light soils, plant 
in November ; in heavy soils, in early spring (February 
and March). The tubers are quite small, and should not 
be buried more than two inches. They require lifting 
each year. The typical species of Palestine has brilliant 
scarlet flowers. 



PULMONARIA—RODGERSIA 121 



Rheum (Rhubarb). — The best of these — R. palmatum, 
R. p. rubriilorum, whose inflorescence is wholly coloured 
red, R. p. tanghuticum, R. Emodi, and R. nobile — vie 
with the Ferulas, Heracleums and others in their bold 
picturesque aspect of leaf and flower, and like these are 
eminently fitted for isolation, wild garden, or shrubbery. 




Fig. 49. — A Root Cutting of Romneya Coulteri that has started 

growing. It may be cut into lengths at the white 

bands for Propagation. 

Height six to eight feet. Seed and division in autumn 
or spring. Owing to their great leaf spread ample space 
should be given. 

Rodgersia {Bronze Leaf). — Handsome in foliage and 
flower, and most effective in their autumn tints. Good 
water-side plants in light shade. Podophylla is the best 



122 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

known ; it has noble leafage and creamy panicles of 
flowers. Esculifolia, horse chestnut-leaved and jnnk 
flowers ; pinnata, rosy crimson ; and p. alba, white, 
are all excellent. Division in autumn and spring, and 
by seeds. 

Romneya {Calif ornian Bush Poppy). — R. Coulteri in 
its fullest splendour is a glorious plant. In nature it is 
almost of shrubby habit, and near the sea or a few miles 
inland does well thus. In other places it is cut down by 
frost, or the knife. Loves warmth, light well-drained 
soils, and old mortar. A sheltered corner or near green- 
house wall suits it admirably. The fine glaucous leaves 
are in good contrast with the huge glistening white 
flowers, which are delicately fragrant. Division, seeds 
when available and root cuttings (Fig. 49). 

Rudbeckia (Coneflower). — Showy border and wood- 
land plants of the easiest culture. Speciosa (Newmannii), 
hirta, and sub-tomentosa are the best of those growing 
two feet or so high, while laciniata Golden Glow, 1. 
Golden Ball, double flowered ; and laevigata (Autumn 
Glory), single, are desirable among those growing five to 
six feet high. The former set are single, flower-heads 
yellow with black disc or cone. R. purpurea is referred 
to Echinacea. Maxima has great glaucous leaves dis- 
tinct from all. The plant is six feet high. Cahfornica 
is also a majestic kind, having the largest flow^er-heads 
of aU. Laciniata is from six to ten feet, with much 
divided leaves. Division in spring and seeds. 

Saxifraga [Rockfoil). — The great inimitable wealth of 
this genus belongs to the rock garden ; good border 
sorts are few and far between. The Megaseas — crassi- 
folia, cordifolia, and ligulata, with their following — are 
exceptions, and are weU suited for forming bold belts to 
plantings of shrubs. These are highly ornamental, too, 
in the rock garden. The best of these are cordifolia 
purpurea, and ligulata speciosa. They are hardy, 
vigorous, and free, and while among the most accom- 
modating, whether in dry or moist soils, revel in rich 
soils anywhere. They arc \-aluable for their permanent 



ROMNEYA—SIDALCEA 123 

leafage and good garden effect. The double meadow 
Saxifrage, S. granulata fl.-pL, is at home in moist soils ; 
peltata is grand in half-boggy places ; while many of the 
mossy sorts are good and effective as edgings. All are 
increased readily by division in spring or late summer. 

Scabiosa [Scabious). — The only perennial species call- 
ing for notice is S. caucasica, whose mauve-blue flower- 
heads are freely produced on plants three to four feet 
high in July and August. There is a white variety, and 
both are excellent in the cut state. The type is very 
popular with florists and gardeners. Raise from fresh 
seeds ; it is the only rational way. 

Schizostylis [Winter Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily). — If S. 
coccinea. a remarkable plant, were treated somewhat 
after the manner recommended for Montbretia — i.e., 
lifted and protected in winter and planted out singly in 
spring — it would do far better than is usually seen. 
Flowers in November. Rich moist soils. 

Sedum [Ice-plant). — S. spectabile and its variety atro- 
purpurea are the best for border work, forming flatish 
corymbs of pink and rose coloured flowers respectively. 
In opposition to the reputed requirements of the genus, 
these attain their greatest vigour — three feet or more — 
in moist clay soils. Division in spring. 

Senecio [Ragwort, or Groundsel). — The border kinds of 
merit here are S. Doronicum, two feet, golden yellow, 
spring ; and S. pulcher, three feet, purplish crimson 
August. The first divides with ease, and both may be 
increased abundantly from root cuttings. Clivorum, 
japonica, Veitchianus, and Wilsonianus are bog-loving 
species, and quite handsome if rightly placed. These have 
yellow flower-heads. Seed and division. Easily culti- 
vated. S. pulcher requires sandy, well-drained loam. 

Sidalcea [Greek Mallow). — Those of the highest garden 
value are Candida, Listeri, malvaeflora and Rosy Gem. 
The plants are about four feet high. Listeri has fringed 
flowers of considerable beauty. Easily grown in border 
soil in any position. Seeds, spring division, and 
cuttings. 



124 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

Solidago (Goldoi Rod). — These are not of high merit 
thtjugh useful in shrubbery and woodland. Succeed in 
any soil, and increase rapidly at the root. Too voracious 
for the choice border, although effective in late summer 
and autumn, \4rgaurea cambrica (nana) is a pretty 
and dwarf sort. Golden Wings, Canadensis, and Shortii 
are four to five feet ; all have yellow plume-like inflor- 
escences. Division spring or autumn. 

Spiraea {Meadow Sweet). — All the Meadow Sweets lovt 
moisture, and grow with vigour and freedom. Generally 
speaking, they are grand water-side plants, ranging from 
two feet high in filipendula to eight feet in gigantea. 
Aruncus (Goat's Beard) is a noble plant four to five feet 
high and through, with creamy white plumes. A. 
plumosus is a good form of it. Astilboides and floribunda 
have feathery panicles of white. Gigantea and its 
variety rosea are among the boldest and most desirable. 
Palmata, with rosy red flowers, is unique anywhere, 
while the forms of venusta, in pink and deep pink, are 
among the most attracti^'e. Rich soils and moisture. 
Division when dormant. 

Statice {Sea Lavender). — The finest of all is latifolia ; 
its mound-like tufts of countless blue flowers often 
measure two-and-a-half feet across. The plant attains 
two feet or more high, its flower stems springing from a 
{^rostrate rosette of leaves close to the surface. Certainly 
one of the best late autumn flowering perennials. In- 
valuable for cutting, and when dried one of the best of 
so-called " everlastings." Easy of culture in ordinary 
soil. Seeds and root cuttings are the best methods of 
increase. Incana, Limonium, and Gmelini are dwarfer 
growing kinds of lesser value, though pretty. 

Stokesia {Stoke' s Aster). — The typical kind, S. cyanea, 
is usually too late in flowering to be of ser^•ice, while its 
variety praecox, coming in August, is invaluable. The 
flower-heads are deep lavender blue on branching stems, 
fifteen to eighteen inches high, and are like a giant 
Aster. There is a good white form. The plant is 
almost impossible to increase by division, but may be 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



125 




126 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 

increased to any extent by root cuttinj^s, and bv seeds 
when procurable. 

Thalictrum {Meadow' Rue). — The best border sorts are 
tlie varieties of T. aquilegifolium, which have a graceful 
habit of growth. These plants depend upon the plume- 
Uke character of their filaments and anthers for their 
display, the sepals early falling away. In Delavayi and 
dipterocarpum, recent additions from China, the lilac 
and blue sepals remain and make a goodly show in con- 
junction with the anthers. Petaloideum is of this class, 
too, but with white sepals ; all are elegant of leaf. 
Sandy loam. Division and seeds. 

Thermopsis. — Two species, fabacea, two-and-a-half 
feet, whose leaves are clothed with silky hairs, and 
montana, three to five feet, are most usually met with, 
and both have yellow, Pea-shaped flowers. Mgorous 
perennials of easy culture, flowering in early summer. 
Seeds and division. 

Tiarella {Foam Floiver). — A delightful tufted plant of 
a foot high, with pinky buds and starry cream-coloured 
flowers on erect spikes. For the front of the border, in 
cool and deep soil, it is charming. As a choice exhibi- 
tion plant it is one of the best. Easily increased by 
division in spring. 

Trillium {Wood Lily, Trinity Flower). — Where a peaty 
bog bed has been made for the hardy Lady's Slippers 
(Cypripedium), there will these "Wood Lilies" make 
their happiest home (Fig. 50). In short, their chief needs 
are wood shade, rich vegetable soils, and moisture. To 
such essentials might I add the equally great one of 
" once planted let them alone." Grandiflorum, g. 
roseum, white and rose ; erectum, purple ; erythro- 
carpum, white, blotched crimson ; sessile, intense purple ; 
s. californicum, white and purple ; and s. Snow Queen, 
are the best. Height nine to eighteen inches. Flowers 
in April and May. Plant in autumn. Seeds. 

Tritoma. — See Kniphofia. 

Tritonia. — See Montbretia. 



THALICTRUM—VERBASCUM 127 

Trollius {Globe Flower). — Showy and handsome, 
moisture-loving herbaceous perennials of about three 
feet high. They are easily cultivated in rich border 
soils, and give no trouble whatever. They are great 
rooters and plenty of soil should be within reach. The 
Asiatic kinds usually have orange flowers ; the Euro- 
peans, pale yellow flowers. The first includes Fortunei 
and chinensis, which have somewhat open flowers, while 
the latter includes such bold growing sorts as napelli- 
folius, Orange Globe, and Newry Giant. All submit 
readily to division of the root-stock in spring or autumn. 
Flowers in May and June. 

Tropaeolum [Nasturtium). — T. speciosum is the 
" Flame Flower," with Bindweed-like roots, elegant and 
graceful leafage, and brilliant vermilion flowers in late 
summer. In parts of vScotland and the East Coast the 
plant is virtually a weed, growing best, perhaps, in 
sandy, heath-like soils, and in a north aspect. Some- 
times, too, it is just at much at home in loamy soils, and 
in both forms curtains of growth a dozen or eighteen feet 
high. Prefers a cool north aspect and the companion- 
ship of Holly or Yew. Plant in spring. T. polyphyllum 
produces trails of glaucous foliage and yellow flowers. 
It is tuberous rooted. Good for rockery. The roots 
descend deeply, and shoots appear a yard away from 
the original place of planting. Best in a restricted root 
area, with biennial planting when dormant. Division 
of the tubers ; seeds. Flowers in June. 

Verbaseum {Mullein). — The noblest of these plants — 
olympicum, pannosum, phlomoides and others — are 
best if regarded from the biennial point of view ; thus 
treated, they are giants indeed. The great rosettes of 
leaves of some reach to nearly a yard across. Those 
named are yellow flowered, six to eight feet high, and 
most effective. Recently showy bronze-coloured hy- 
brids have arisen, such as Caledonia ; Harkness' hybrid, 
yellow ; and Miss Willmott, white. June-August. Seeds, 
winter sown. Plant in April and May. 



128 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



Veronica {Speedwell). — The only species worthy of 
serious thought here is subsessilis, from Japan, and this 
is a plant for every garden. Height two to three feet ; 
ample dark green foliage, and intense royal purple 
flowers on long s])ikes. It attracts all who see it. 
Vigorous habit and free blooming. Alongside this the 
other border kinds are comparative weeds, mostly 
deficient in colour. That named is a great plant. 
Increases readily by soft cuttings at any time, and by 
division in spring. Flowers August and September. 

Viola {Tufted Pansy). — No garden is complete without 
these fresh, cool-looking carpeters of the soil. They 
embrace white, cream, yellow, gold, purple, violet, 
crimson, and other shades of colour. ^lay be planted 
in April or October. Always, however, from freshly 
rooted cuttings, not worn-out, divided stock. They 
delight in cool, deep, well-enriched soils, and well grown, 
no praise is too great for them. In not a few districts 
the finest effects are secured from two-year-old plants. 
Then are they great indeed. 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



129 



PART III. 
Hardy Flowers for Various Purposes. 

[A Selection of the Finest Herbaceous Perennials.) 





Colour, and 




Name. 


Time of 


Hght. 




Flowering. 


Feet. 


Achillea alpina .... 


White ; July 


2 


,, Eupatorium 


Yellow ; August 


4 


,, Ptarmica The Pearl 


White ; 
July, August 


2i 


Perry's White 


July, August 


2i 


Aconitum Fischeri 


Blue ; Sept. 


U 


,, Wilsonii 


Rich Blue ; Sept. 


5-6 


Adonis amurensis 


Yellow ; March 


1 


fl.-pl. 


Yellow ; March 


1 


,, vernalis 


Yellow ; April 


1 


Anchusa italica, Dropmore var. . 


Blue ; June, July 


4-6 


Opal 


Pale Blue ; 
June, July 


4-6 


Anemone alpina 


Pale Blue ; May 


2 


,, Hepatica, in variety . 


Red, White, Blue ; 
Spring 


4 


,, japonica (all vars.) 


Red, White ; 
July, August 


4 


,, sylvestris grandiflora . 


White ; May 


n 


Anthericum Liliastrum major 


White ; 
May, June 


2 


Aquilegia chrysantha 


Yellow ; July 


3-4 


„ coerulea hybrids, various 


July, August 


2-3 


Aster Amellus, all varieties 


August 


2 


,, acris .... 


Blue ; August 


n 


,, (Michaelmas Daisies)various 


— ■ 


— 


Astilbe Ceres .... 


Rose ; August 


3 


,, Queen Alexandra 


Pink ; August 


3 


,, Snow Plume . 


White ; August 


3 


Campanula carpatica alba . 


White ; Sept. 


2 


,, Riverslea 


Blue ; Sept. 


1 


White Star 


White ; 
August, Sept. 


I 


persicifolia alba 






grandiflora 


White ; July 


H 



130 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 





Colour, and 




Name. 


Time of 


Hght. 




Flowering. 


Feet. 


Campanula persicifolia alba tl.-pl. 


White ; July 


•^h 


„ Van Houttei 


Blue ; July, Aug. 


■^ 


Centaurea montana rubra . 


Red ; June 


2 


Chelone barbata 


Scarlet ; 
July, September 


4 


,, coccinea 


Deep Scarlet ; 


4 


,, Torreyi 


Coral Red ; 


4 


Chrysanthemum maximum vars. . 


White ; Summer 


3 


Coreopsis grandiflora . 


Yellow ; Summer 


n 


,, lanceolata . 


Yellow ; Summer 


2i 


Delphiniums, various . 


June, July 


4-8 


Doronicum plantagineum excelsum 


Yellow ; Spring 


3 


Echinops Ritro .... 


Blue; 
July, August 


4 


Erigeron Quakeress 


Pale Blue ; 
July, October 


2 


,, speciosus superbus 


Blue ; 
July, September 


2i 


Eryngium amethystinum 


Blue ; August 


3 


Funkia Sieboldi. 


Bluish ; August 


2 


,, subcordata 


White ; August 


2 


Gaillardias, in variety . 


Crimson & Gold ; 
Summer 


3 


Galega, His Majesty . 


Blue & White ; 
July, August 


4 


Gaum chiloense Mrs. J . Bradshaw 


Scarlet ; Summer 


2 


„ Heldreichi superbum 


Orange&Crimson ; 
Summer 


2 


Helenium, in variety . 


Yellow ; Summer 


4 


Helianthus (Sunflower) 


Yellow ; 
August, Sept. 


4 


Hemerocallis (Day Lily) aurantiaca 






major 


Orange ; August 


2* 


„ Dr. Regal 


Orange ; August 


2i 


,, Dumortieri 


Yellow & Red ; 
June 


2 


,, flava 


Yellow, June 


n 


Heucheras, in variety 


July, September 


2i 


Incarvillea Delavayi . 


Rose ; June 


3-4 


Iris, a great variety . 







THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



131 





Colour, and 




Name. 


Time of 


Hght. 




Flowering. 


Feet. 


Kniphofia John Benary 


Scarlet ; Sept. 


5 


,, aloides glaucescens 


1 Scarlet and ] 




,, ,, grand iflora 


Vermilion [ 


6-8 


,, „ nobilis . 


( Aug., Sept. I 




Lathyrus latifolius The Pearl 


White ; 
July, September 


6-8 


Liatris graminifoha Dubia . 


Rose Purple ; 
August 


6 


Lobelia cardinalis 


Vermilion ; Aug. 


4 


„ fulgens Queen Victoria 


Vermilion ; Aug. 


4 


,, Fire Fly 


Scarlet ; 
August, Sept. 


5 


Lychnis chalcedonica . 


Scarlet ; July 


3 


Monarda didyma 


Scarlet ; July 


2i 


,, „ Cambridge Scarlet 


July 


2| 


Paeonies, in variety 


June 


2-3 


Papaver (Poppy), in variety 


June 


2-3 


Phlox (Herbaceous) in variety 


July, August 


2-4 


Physalis Bunyardii 


August, Sept. 


3 


,, Franchetii 


August, Sept. 


3 


Platycodon grandiflorum 


Fine Blue ; 
July, Sept. 


2 


Primula Sieboldii, various . 


Spring 


n 


,, pulverulenta. 


Crimson ; June 


3 


Pyrethrum, in variety, double 


June 


2i 


„ ' single 


June 


2* 


Rudbeckia laciniata Golden Glow 


August 


5 


„ laevigata . 


Yellow ; August 


5 


,, speciosa 


Yellow ; 
July, August 


2 


Scabiosa caucasica 


Mauve ; 
July, August 


3 


„ „ alba 


White ; 
July, August 


3 


Saxifraga cordifolia purpurea 


Reddish ; 
May, June 


2 


„ ligulata speciosa . 


Reddish ; 
May, June 


2 


Sedum spectabile 


Pink ; August 


2 


„ „ atropurpureum 


Rose ; August 


2 



132 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 





Colour, and 




Name. 


Time of 


Hght. 




Flowering. 
White ; July 


Feet. 


Spira-a astilboides 


3 


„ „ floribunda 


White ; July 


3 


,, palmata 


Crimson ; July 


3 


Statice latifolia .... 


Blue ; 
August, Sept. 


2 


Stokesia Cyanea pra?cox 


Blue ; 
July, August 


lA 


Thalictrum aquilegifolium . 


Cream ; June 


2 


,, ,, purpureiini 


Purple ; June 


2 


,, ,, rosevim 


Rose ; June 


9 


,, Delavayi 


Lilac Blue ; 
July, August 


4 


,, dipterocarpum 


Violet ; 
July, August 


4-5 


Tiarella cordifolia 


White ; 
May, June 


1 


Trillium grandiflonim. 


White ; 
April, May 


1 


Trollius Fortnnei & Orange Globe 


Orange ; June 


u 


TropEeolum speciosum 


Scarlet ; 
August, Sept. 


Climber 


Veronica subsessilis 


Intense Violet ; 
August, Sept. 


2* 



The Best Bulbous and Tuberous 
Rooted Plants. 



Name. 



Anemone blanda 



,, scythinica 
coronaria \ars. . 

,, St. Brigid 
fulgens 



Colour, and 

Time of 
Flowering. 



Hght. 
Feet. 



Blue ; Spring 

White & Blue ; 

Spring j 

Blue, White, Rose; 

Spring I 

All Colours ; 

Spring 

Scarlet ; Spring 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



133 





Colour, and 




Name. 


Time of 


Hght. 




Flowering. 


Feet. 


Camassia Leichtlinii . 


Cream ; August 


3 


,, ,, atrocaerulea 


Blue ; August 


3 


Chionodoxa gigantea, Luciliae and 






sardensis .... 


Blue ; Spring 


i 


Colchicum speciosum . 


Rose ; Sept. 


1 


,, ,, album 


White ; Sept. 


1 


,, ,, rubrum 


Reddish ; Sept. 


1 


Criniim Powellii. 


Rose ; 
August, Sept. 


3 


,, ,, album 


White ; 
August, Sept. 


3 


,, ,, yeraense . 


White ; 
August, Sept. 


3 


Crocus, species and varieties 


Spring 


— 


Cyclamen (hardy), any 


Spring & Autumn 


i 


Eranthis cilicica 


Yellow ; Winter 


I 


,, hy emails 


Yellow ; Winter 


i 


Eremurus, any (see page 91). 






Erythronium, any 


Spring 


4 


Fritillaria imperialis, vars., all 


— 


3 


,, „ chitralensis . 


Yellow ; March 


2 


„ meleagris, vars. . 


April 


2 


Galanthus (Snowdrop) 


White ; Winter 


.V 


Gladiolus, a great variety . 


July, August 


U-3 


Hyacinthus amethystinus . 


Blue ; May 


i 


Hyacinths (Bedding), various 


Spring 


1 


Iris, English, in variety 


June, July 


2 


„ Spanish ,, . . . 


June, July 


2 


Ixiolirion montanum tartaricum . 


Deep Blue ; 
May, June 


n 


,, Pallasii 


Rich Blue ; 
May, June 


n 


Lilium auratum platyphyllum 


White & Crimson ; 
August 


5 


„ Batemanii 


Apricot ; August 


2i 


,, Brownii 


White & Choco- 
late ; July 


H 


,, candidum speciosum 


White ; July 


6 


,, chalcedonicum 


Scarlet ; July 


2i 


, , , , Heldreichii 


Scarlet ; July 


n 



134 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 





Colour, and 




Name. 


Time of 


Hght. 




Flowering. 


Feet. 


Lilium Dalhansonii . 


Dark ; June 


5 


,, Dauricum 


Yellow & Red ; 
June 


2i 


,, excelsum 


Nankeen Yellow; 

Ji^iy 


4 


,, Hansonii 


Golden ; July 


4 


,, Henryi .... 


Orange ; 
August, Sept. 


6 


,, Martagon cialmaticum 


Nearly Black ; 

July 


5-6 


,, monadelphum 


Yellow ; July 


4 


,, pardalinum, any vars. 


July, August 


4-6 


pomponium . 


Scarlet ; June 


2i 


,, ,, verum . 


Scarlet ; June 


3* 


,, speciosum album Kraetzeri 


White ; 
August, Sept. 


4-6 


,, ,, ,, novum . 


White ; 
August, Sept. 


4-6 


„ ,, macranthum . 


Rose ; 

August, Sept. 


4-6 


,, ,, melpomene 


Crimson ; 
August, Sept. 


4-6 


,, ,, magnificum 


Crimson ; 
August, Sept. 


4-6 


„ Thunbergianum, in vars. . 


. — ■ 


— 


,, tigrinum (any) 


— 


— 


,, umbellatum (any) . 


— 


— 


Montbretia Prometheus 


Orange & Crimson 
August, Sept. 


3 


,, Star of the East 


Orange Yellow ; 
August, Sept. 


3 


Miiscaria conicum 


Blue ; May 


1 


,, ,, Heavenly Blue 


May 


1 


Narcissus (Daffodils) ,a great variety 


Spring 


1-2 


Orchis foliosa .... 


Purple ; 
May, June 


2 


Puschkinia libanotica. 


Blue & White ; 
Spring 


i 


Ranunculus asiaticus, in variety . 


May, June 


n 


Tulips of all sections . 


March, May 


i^ 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



135 



Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Spring. 



Adonis amurensis 

„ fl.-pl. 
,, ,, vernalis 

Allium neapolitanum 
Alyssum saxatile 
Anemone alpina 
„ apennina 

„ coronaria, in variety 

,, fulgens 

,, Hepatica in variety 

„ nemorosa Robin- 

sonii 
,, nemorosa AUenii 

Pulsatilla 
ranunculoides 
sulphurca 
„ sylvestris 

,, ,, grandiflora 

Arabis albida fl.-pl. 
Aubrietias (all vars.) 

Bulbocodium vernum 

Chionodoxa, all kinds 
Crocuses, in great variety 
Cyclamen Coum vars. 
Cypripedium Calceolus 
,, pubescens 

Dicentra eximia 

„ spectabilis 

Doronicums, all 

Epimediums, of sorts 
Erythroniums (Dog's Tooth 
Violet) 



Fritillarias, of sorts 

Galanthus (Snowdrop) 
Gentiana acaulis 
,, verna 

Helleborus (Lenten Roses) 
Hepatica (see Anemone 
Hepatica) 

Iris nudicaulis 
,, pumila 

Muscarias (all the kinds) 

Narcissus (a great variety) 

Omphalodes verna 
Orobus vernus 

Phlox divaricata 

„ canadensis, Perry's var. 
Primula, many species and 
vars., including Polyanthus 
Pulmonaria angustifolia 

,, ,, azurea 

arvernense 
„ saccharata 

Saxifraga, a large number 
Scilla, all kinds 

Trillium, all the kinds 
Tulipa, species and varieties 



Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Summer. 



Achillea alpina 

„ Eupatorium 

„ mongolica 

,, Ptarmica, The Pearl 

„ ,, Perry's White 

Alstroemeria aurantiaca 



Anchusa italica, Dropmore 
var. 
,, ,, opal 

Androsace lanuginosa 
Anemone japonica, all vars. 
Anthemis Triumfettii 



136 



THE HARDY FLOWER HOOK 



Anthericum liliastruin major 
Aquilegia, of sorts 
Armeria plantaginea rubra 
Aster subcocruleus 
Astilbes, all the kinds 

Campanulas, a great variety 
Centaurea montana rubra 
Chelone barbata coccinea 
,, ,, Torrcyi 

Chrysanthemum maximum, 

in variety 
Cimicifuga cordifolia 

,, racemosa 

,, simplex 

Coreopsis grandiflora 

,, lanceolata 
Cypripedium spectabile 

Delphiniums, a great variety 
Dictamnus albus 

,, caucasicus 

Eremurus, any kinds 

Galegas, of sorts 
Galtonia candicans 
Geranium grandiflorum 

,, ibericum 

Geum chiloense IVIrs. J. 
Bradshaw 
,, Heldreichii supcrbum 
Gladiolus, early flowering 

sorts 
Gypsophila paniculata 

fl.-pl. 

Heleniums, of sorts 
Helianthus, all varieties 
Hemerocallis, all kinds 
Heuchera, in variety 

Incarvillea Delavayi 

,, grandiflora 

Irises, of many kinds and 
varieties 

Kniphofias, of sorts 

Lathyrus latifolius The 

Pearl 
Liliums, of sorts 



Lujainus polyphyllus 

,, ,, albus 

Lychnis chalcedonica 

,, coronaria 

,, Haageana 

,, \ iscaria splendens 
plena 



Monarda didyma 



Cambridge 
Scarlet 



Montbretias, all 



Paeonies, a great gathering 
Papaver orientale, in variety 
Pentstemons, hybrids and 

species 
Phlox (herbaceous), in 
variety 
,, alpine sorts and 
their allies 
Primula japonica 

,, pulverulenta 
Pyrethrum, double \'ars. 
„ single ,, 

Rodgersia csculasfolia 
,, podophylla 

,, pinnata 

,, ,, alba 

Rudbeckias, in variety 

Saxifraga Cotyledon, vars. 
Scabiosa caucasica 

„ ,, alba 

Sedum spectabile 

„ ,, atropurpureum 

Spiraea, any kinds 
Statice latifolia 
Stokesia cyanea praecox 

Thalictrum aquilegifohum, 
vars. 
,, Delavayi 

,, dipterocarpum 

Thermopsis fabacea 
„ montana 

TroUius, of sorts 

Veronica subsessilis 
Wahlenbergia vinca^flora 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



137 



Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Autumn. 

N.B. — -The groups marked * are bulbous rooted. 



Aconitura Fischeri 
,, Wilsonii 

Androsace lanuginosa 
Anemone japonica, all vars. 
Artemisia lactifiora 
Asclepias tuberosa 
Aster acris 

,, amellus, in variety 
„ (Michaelmas Daisies), 
in variety 
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 
*Colchicum, of sorts 
*Crinum Powelli 

,, ,, album 

,, yemense 

*Crocus raedius 
,, nudiflorus 
,, speciosus 
,, Aitchisoni 
*Cyclamen europaeum 

,. neapolitanum 

* Gladiolus brenchleyensis 
,, Childsi 
„ gandavensis 

hybrids 
,, Lemoinei 
,, Nanceanus 
Helenium, all 



Helianthus, any kinds 
Kniphofia, of sorts 

Lobelia cardinalis 

,, fulgens, Queen 

Victoria 
,, fulgens, Firefly 
,, syphilitica, in variety 
*Montbretias, generally 
Pentstemon (Chelone)barbata 
,, Florists' varieties 

,, heterophyllus 

Phlox (herbaceous) 
Physalis Bunyardii 
,, Franchetii 

Platycodon grandiflorum 

,, ,, album 

,, Mariesii 

Polygonum affine 

„ vaccinifolium 

Potentilla atrosanguinea 

Gibson's variety 
„ Tonguei 

*Sternbergia lutea angusti- 

folia 
*Zauschneria californica 

,, ,, splendens 

*Zephyranthes Candida 



Hardy Flowers that Bloom in Winter. 



Anemone blanda 

Crocus Balansae 

,, Imperatii 

,, Sieberi 
Dondia epipactis 

Eranthis cilicica 

,, hy emails 

Helleborus altifolius 
,, niger major 

,, ,, angustifolius 

,, Scoticus 



Helleborus niger Mdme. 

Fourcade 
St. Brigid 

Iris alata 

Heldreichi 
Histrio 

Histrioides major 
reticulata 
Tauri 

unquiculata (stylosa), in 
variety 



138 



THE HARDY h LOWER BOOK 



Plants for forming Edgings. 



Acantholimon glumaceum 
Acaena microphylla 
Achillea tomentosa 
,, umbellata 
Ajuga reptans purpurea 
Alyssum saxatile 
Antcnnaria clioica tomentosa 
Arabis albida fl.-pl. 

,, ,, variegata 

Armerias, all 

Campanula caespitosa 

,, garganica, in 

variety 
G. F. Wilson 

„ muralis 

,, puUa 

„ pusilla 

Cerastium tomentosum 
Coronilla varia 

,, iberica 
Crucianella stylosa vars. 

Dactylis glomerata variegata 



Dianthus of sorts, including 
single and double Pinks 

Dicentra eximia 

Ericas (Hardy Heaths) in 
variety. 

Festuca glauca 

Iberis in variety 
Iris nudicaulis 

Phlox frondosa 

,, subulata, vars. 
Saxifraga, all the mossy sorts 

make perfect edgings 
Silene alpestris 

,, maritima plena 
Thalictrum minus 
Thymus lanuginosus 
,, serpyllum albus 
,, ,, coccineum 

Veronica incana 
,, saxatilis 
,, Teucrium var.dubia 
Viola cornuta, in variety 



Hardy Plants for the Shady Border. 



Anemone Hepatica,in variety 

„ japonica, in vars. 
Aquilegia, in variety 
Asperula odorata 
Astrantia major 

Campanula carpatica,all vars. 
,, persicifolia, all 

vars. 
,, tall varieties, 

generally 
Corydalis nobilis 

Dentarias, of sorts 

Epimediums, of sorts 

Fritillarias 



Galanthus (Snowdrop) 

Helleborus niger, all vars. 

,, orientalis, all vars. 
Heuchera, all vars. 

Iris, all the "Flag" section 

,, laevigata, all 

,, orien talis 

,, sibirica 

Liliura, all the vigorous grow- 
ing sorts 
Lysimachia 
Ly thrum 

Monarda 
Myosotis, in variety 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



139 



Narcissus poeticus, vars. 
Omphalodes verna 

Saxifraga cordifolia 

„ ,, purpurea 

,, crassifolia 
,, ligulata speciosa 
,, granulata plena 



Thalictrum minus 

,, adiantifolium 

,, Delavayi 

„ dipterocarpum 

TroUiuSj of sorts 
Trillium grandiflorum 

Violas (Tufted Pansies) 



Hardy Plants for Sunny Borders. 



Achillea alpina 

,, Eupatoriura 

,, mongolica 

,, Ptarmica plena 

„ ,, Perry's White 

Aconitura, any vars. 

Adonis, all vars. 

Alstromeria aurantiaca 

Anchusa, in variety 

Anemone alpina 
„ Pulsatilla 
,, sylvestris grandi- 
fiora 

Anthericums, any 

Aquilegia, all 

Asclepias tuberosa 

Asters, a great variety 

Aubrietias, any 

Campanula carpatica vars. 

,, pyramidalis,vars. 

„ punctata 

„ glomerata dahur- 

ica 

,, Henderson! 

,, Hillside Gem 

„ Van Houttei 

Carnations of sorts 
Chrysanthemum maxim im, 

vars. 
Coreopsis, of sorts 

Delphiniums, in variety 
Doronicuras, of sorts 

Echinops, in variety 



Erigerons, of sorts 
Eryngiums, several kinds 

Gaillardias 
Galegas, of sorts 
Geraniums 

Gerbera Jamesoni (where 
hardy) 

Helenium, in vars. 
Helianthus, in vars. 
Hemerocallis, in vars. 
Hesperis, in vars. 
Heucheras, in vars. 

Iberis, in vars. 

Iris, all the " Flag " tribe 

„ gigantea 

,, English and Spanish 

Linum flavura 
Lupinus, of sorts 
Lychnis, of sorts 

Montbretias 

Paeonies 

Perennial Poppy 
Pentstemon, of sorts 
Phlox, of sorts 
Platycodon grandiflorum 
Potentillas, all 
Pyrethrums, in variety 

Rudbeckias, in variety 

Scabiosa, in variety 



140 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



A Selection of Ornamental Plants for 
Picturesque Effects. 

Those gfnera marked with an asterisk (*) are ettective also as 
flowering plants. 



Acanthus, any vars. 

* Anemone japonica, in var. 
Aralia edulis 

,, spinosa 
*Artemisia lactiflora 
Arundo Donax vars. 

„ conspicua 

*Astilbe Davidii 
,, rivularis 

gigantea 

Bambusa, in variety 
*Bocconia cordata 

,, microcarpa 
*Buphthalmum speciosum 

*Centaurca Babylonica 
,, glastifolia 

,, macrocephala 

*Cortaderia (Gynerium) ar- 
gentea 

*Crambe cordifolia 

*Eremurus himalaicus 

* ,, robustus 

,, ,, Elwesiana 

*Eryngium amethystinum 
,, giganteum 

,, Oliverianvim 

,, pandanifolium 

,, serra, not hardy 

in all localities 

Ferula, in variety 
Funkia, in variety 

Gunnera scabra 
,, manicata 

*Helianthus latiflorus 

,, Maximillianus 

,, orgy alls 

,, sparsifolius 

*Hemerocallis fulva 

„ Kwanso, in 

variety 
disticha 



*HeracIeum giganteum 

,, mantegazzianum 

*Lilium giganteum 

*Onopordon acanthium 
,, bracteatum 

,, polycephalum 

*Phytolacca decandra 
Polygonum cuspidatum 
,, cymosum 

,, sachalinense 

* Rheum Emodi 

,, palmatum Tanghu- 

ticum 
,, palmatum rubri- 

florum 

Saxifraga peltata 
*Senecio Clivorum 

,, japonica syn. Ery- 
throchaeta pal- 
matifida 
,, Ledebouri 
,, Ligularia 
,, macrophyllus 
,, Veitchianus 
„ Wilsonianus 
Silphiums, in variety 

* Spiraea aruncus 

gigantea 
,, ,, rosea ele- 

gans 
*Thalictrum flavum 

,, glaucum 

*Tritomas (Kniphofias), in 

vars. 
*Veratrum album 
„ nigrum 

„ viride 

*Verbascum, in variety 

* Yuccas, of sorts 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



141 



Hardy Flowers for Show Purposes. 

''P" indicates those best suited for showing in specimen pans ; 
" C " those better suited for exhibition in the cut state. 



Achillea, dwarf and silvery 
leaved (P) 
,, taller growing 

sorts (C) 
Alyssum saxatile (P) 

,, montanum (P) 

Amaryllis Belladonna (C) 
Anemone, dwarf tuberous 
kinds (P) 
,, tall sorts (C) 

Aquilegia (C) 
Armaria cephalotes rubra 

(C& P) 
Asclepias tuberosa (C) 
Aubrietia, any (P) 

Brodifea coccin^a (C & P) 

Campanula, dwarf sorts (P) 
,, tall growers (C) 

Coreopsis (C) 
Crinum (C) 
Cyclamen (P) 
Cypripediums (P) 

Dianthus (P) 
Dicentra eximia (P) 

,, spectabilis (P) 

Dodecatheons (P) 
Draba azoides (P) 

Edraianthus (P) 
Epimediums (P) 
Eryngium (C) 

Fritillaria imperialis (C) 
,, meleagris (P) 

Gaillardias (C) 
Gentiana acaulis (P) 

Helleborus, all sorts (P) 



Hutchinsia (Noccaea) alpina 

(P) 
Hypericums, dwarf (P) 

Iberis, of sorts (P) 

Iris, of many kinds (C & P) 

Kniphofia (C) 

Leucojum vernum (P) 
Liliums, generally (C & P) 
Linum flavum (P) 
Lychnis, generally (C) 
Lysimachia Henryi (P) 

Monarda (C) 
Montbretia (C) 
Muscaria (P) 

Narcissus (C & P) 

Ourisia coccinea (P) 

Pajonia (C & P) 
Phlox, alpine sorts (P) 
,, herbaceous (C) 
Pinguicula grandiflora (P) 
Platycodon grandiflorum (P) 

„ Mariesii (P) 

Polygonum vaccinifolium (P) 
Primula, in variety (P) 
Puschkinia scilloides (P) 
Pyrethrums (C) 

Rudbeckia (C) 

Saxifraga, a great host (P) 
Sedum, of sorts (P) 
Statice latifolia (C) 

Trillium (P) 
TroUius (C) 
Tulipa (C) 

Violas (P) 



142 



THE HARDY 1' LOWER BOOK 



A Selection of Herbaceous and Alpine 
Plants that may be raised from Seeds. 



Acanthus 


Erigeron 


IMonartla 


Achillea 


Erinus 


Morina 


Aconitum 


Erodium 


CEnothera 


^thionema 


Eryngium 


Ononis 


Alyssum 


Euphorbia 




Anchusa 




Papaver 


Anemone 


Fritillaria 


Pentstemon 


Antirrhinum 


Gaillardia 


Phlox 


Aquilegia 


Galega 


Physostegia 


Armeria 


Geranium 


Platj'codon 


Aster 


Geum 


Polemonium 


Aubrietia 


Gypsophila 


Potentilla 
Primula 


Baptisia 


Helenium 


Pyre thrum 


Betonica 


Heuchera 


Rudbeckia 


Brodisea 


Hypericum 


Saxifraga 


Campanula 


Iberis 


Scabiosa 


Chelone 


Inula 


Sedum 


Chrysanthemum 


Iris 


Silene 


Coreopsis 


Isopyrum 


Spiraea 


Coronilla 




Statice 


Corydalis 


Lathy rus 
Liatris 


Thermopsis 


Delphinium 


Lilium 


TroUius 


Dianthus 


Linum 


Tropaeolum 


Draba 


Lobelia (her- 


Tunica 


Dracocephalum 


baceous) 


Verbascum 


Echinacea 


Lupinus 


Viola 


Echinops 


Lychnis 


Zauschneria 



A Selection of Moisture-Loving Plants. 



Astilbe, of sorts 

Butomus umbellatus 

Caltha, of sorts 
Camassia esculenta 
Chrysobactron Hookeri 
Crinums, all 
Cypripedium pubescens 
„ spectabile 



Dentaria 

Epilobium 

Ficaria 

Gentiana Andrewsii 

,, Pneumonanthe 

Gunnera scabra 
,, nianicata 



THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 



143 



Hellonias 

Iris aurea 
,, graminea 
,, Monnieri 
,, ochrolenca 
,, sibirica 

Leucojum aestivum 
Lilium canadense, vars. 

,, paradalinum vars. 

,, superbum 
Linnaea borealis 
Lobelias (tall growers) 
Lysimachia 
Lythrum 

Narcissus poeticus, vars., all 
,, Emperor 

,, Empress 

,, Horsfieldii 

Sir Watkin 



Orchis 

Primula BuUeyana 
,, japonica 
,, Munroii 
,, pulverulenta 
,, rosea 
,, sikkimensis 

Rodgersia 

Sarracenia purpurea 
Spigelia marilandica 
Spiraea, many sorts 
Swertia perennis 
Senecio clivorum 
,, japonica 
,, Wilsonianus 
,, Veitchianus 

Trillium, in variety 



Hardy Ferns for the Shrubbery Border 
OR Woodland. 



Athyrium — ■ 
Filix fcemina 

,, ,, coryrabiferum 

„ )) crispum 

,, ,, Edwardsii 

,, „ Fieldae 

,, „ Frizellae 

Aspidium spinulosum 

Lastraea filix-mas, in variety 
„ oreopteris 
„ dilitata 
„ Goldieana 
,, erythrosora 

Oaoclea sensibilis 
Osraunda cinnamomea 
,, Claytoniana 



Osmunda gracilis 
„ regalis 



cristata 



Polypodium phegopteris 

„ vulgare carabri- 

cum 
,, vulgare elegan- 

tissimura 
Polystichum acrostichoides 
„ aculeatum 

„ angulare proliferum 
Pteris aquilina 

Scolopendrium, many sorts 
Struthiopteris germanica 

„ pennsylvanica 



Uniform with " The Hardy Flower Book." 



THE SMALL 
ROCK GARDEN 

By 

E. H. JENKINS. 

Over Fifty Illustrations and Coloured 
Frontispiece. 

Price 2/6 net. 

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A FINh, BKICK HOUSE. 
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THIS volume deals with garden design as a whole, with 
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The first seven chapters describe in detail some beautiful gardens 

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which illustrate 
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(Reduced specimen illustration.) disCUSScd in detail 

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Edited by LAWRENCE WEAVER 

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IT is impossible that any one writer can deal with the many problems tha 
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THE word "cottage" has been grossly misused, especially in the titles ot 
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A Work of National Importance 

Windsor Castle 

AN ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY 

Collected and n^ritten by Command of Their Majesties 

QUEEN VICTORIA 
KING EDWARD VII. and 
KING GEORGE V. 

By W. H. ST. JOHN HOPE, Litt.D., D.C.L. 

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Windsor Castle stands alone among the buildings of Great Britain. 
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The story of English Building during eight centuries is very fully 
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The edition is strictly limited to 1,050 numbered copies, of which over 
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The portfolio contains a notable reproduction of Norden's View of 
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In English Homes 

Ulusirating the architectural character^ decorations and 
jnrn'iture of some of the most notable Houses of EngUind 

Volumes /., //. and III. 



AND THE RECENTLY PUBLISHED FOURTH VOLUME 

ENGLISH HOMES of the EARLY 
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Edited by H. AVRAY TIPPING, M.A., F.S.A. 

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GARDENS 

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(The Country House and its Garden Environment) 

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I HESE three volumes illustrate the relationship between 
house and garden, and the beauties of every type of 
garden, both formal and natural, in a way never before attempted. 
They afford a complete survey ot the whole history of garden 
design and garden architecture, considered from every point 
of view, historical, artistic and horticultural. 

" The title given to this handsome book hardly does justice to the contents. The 
gardens that it so lavishly portrays, charming as they are, would be without life 
and meaning, except as settings to the priceless old English halls, manor-houses, 
and castles that are centred in each well-chosen view. There must be almost a 
thousand of these fascinating pictures in this one volume, and all, with one exception, 
have been chosen from sixty-four famous places, so that one does not merely have 
a passing glimpse of a multitude of widely-scattered scenes, but, on an average, 
fifteen careful outdoor studies of each beautiful house and its surroundings." 

— Morning Post. 



The "Country Life" Library of Architectural Monographs. 

HOUSES AND 
GARDENS BY 
E. L. LUTYENS 

Described and criticised by 
LAWRENCE WEAVER 

Large crown folio (16 hy 11), hound in quarter buckram, 
gilt, over 350 pages and 500 magnificent illustrations. 

25s. net 

Inland postage, lOrf. extra 



THIS book is lavishly illustrated with photographs of about 
eighty of Mr. Lutyens' most typical houses and gardens, 
many of which have never previous^ been published. 
Interspersed in the text is a large number of plans, and 
there is an appendix of 22 pages giving a valuable series of scale 
drawings of typical buildings. The subjects are accompanied by 
descriptions and critical appreciations which incidentally throw 
considerable light on the general development of the domestic 
building of to-day. In all respects the book is the most important 
and interesting monograph of the work of an architect yet pub- 
lished. 

The Scotsman says : " Among the English architects whose work has 
saved mo lern domestic architecture from the reproacli of merely handing 
down thf traditions of a lost art, none has done more or better work than 
Mr. E. L. Lutyens. . . . I\Ir. Lawrence Weaver has written a learned 
and judicious appreciation of the work of this busy and indefatigable master- 
builder, which covers an extraordinarily large and varied field. To look over 
the multitude of photographs brought together in this aibum and to consider 
Mr. Weaver's reverent criticisms is to realise how, with mastery and versatility 
in the most varied and opposed manners, and as happy with a pergola as 
with a hall fireplace in a stately country house, Mv. Lutyens has yet a dis- 
tinctly personal note of his own. none the less characteristic or charming 
because it is English. The book has some five hundred delightful photo- 
graphs, a hundred plans of houses and gardens, and many detail drawings. 
Architects and students of architecture will pronounce it valuable in itself 
and of good promise for the series in which it appears." 



OUR COMMON 
SEA-BIRDS 

CORMORANTS, TERNS, GULLS, SKUAS, PETRELS, and AUKS 

By PERCY R. LOWE, B.A., M.B., B.C. 

With Chapters by Bentley Beetham, Francis Heatherley, 
W. R. Ogilvie-Grant, Oliver G. Pike, W. P. Pycraft, A. J. Roberts, etc. 

Large quarto, cloth, gilt, over 300 pages, and nearly 250 illustrations 

15s. net, inland postage yd. extra 



UNLIKE the majority of books dealing with 
birds, this volume is of interest to the general 
reader and to the student of ornithology alike. 
It is a book that enables the reader to identify 
our sea-birds by name, to understand their movements, 
their habits, their nests, and their eggs. 

Dr. Lowe, during many yachting trips round the 
British Islands, in the Mediterranean, and across the 
Atlantic, has had exceptional opportunities of studying 
the habits and life histories of our sea-birds, and this book, 
in addition to embodying much valuable information from 
the latest records, contains a large number of new facts 
and original theories of intense interest to all. The 
Introductory pages and the chapters on the Flight of Birds 
deserve the closest attention. 

The Illustrations are of extraordinary merit and 
beauty. They exhibit in a marked degree, the result not 
only of the skill, knowledge., and ingenuity of the photo- 
graphers, but of their high enthusiasm and unwearying 
patience. 

" ' Our Common Sea-Birds ' is not only written with the clearness and 
simplicity which are the first essentials of such a book, but it is also enriched 
with a series of illustrations which no epithet but ' marvellous ' is adequate 
to describe." — The Glasgow Herald. 



10 



PASTIME WITH 
GOOD COMPANY 

Pictured by 
G. D. ARMOUR 

With an Introduction by 
HORACE G. HUTCHINSON 

Royal quarto, iastejully hound, containing over fifty 
choice -plates thoroughly typical of Mr. Armour's art 

15s. net, postage 6d. extra 



IN the beautiful picture gallery disclosed through 
the pages of this volume, Mr. Armour presents a 

wonderfully repre- 
sentative collection 
of his art. Whether 
it is the field in 
"full cry," the 
grouse coming over 
the heather, the 
polo player dashing 
towards the goal, 
or the otter hound 
surging through the 
rapids; all are 
p o r t r a \" e d with 
individualit\' and 
Rdclitv by means 
which have the appealing merit of simplicity and directness. 
The plates are perfect specimens of pictorial art. Each 
one deserves, and, indeed, demands a frame. 




THE PEREGRINE FALCON 
AT THE EYRIE 

By FRANCIS HEATHERLEY, F.R.C.S. 

Illustrated throughout ivith wonderful 
photographs by the Author and C. J. King 

Demy quarto, cloth, gilt. 5s, net, inland postage 5d. extra. 

THIS fascinating book on the I'eregrine Falcon — the grandest bird of prey left 
in England — combines the salient facts of almost innumerable field notes, 
written at the eyrie itself. It is a book that should appeal with irresistible 
force to all true nature lovers. Many striking and unexpected facts were revealed to 
the author as a result of unwearying patience in a diminutive hut slung from the 
precipice of a lonely islet. These records are here set forth in a wonderful narrative 
which discloses the life history of the Peregrine Falcon from the moment of its 
hatching to the day it finally leaves the eyrie. 

" No one who wishes to know the most that has been learned about the Peregrine 
Falcon can afford to neglect this work. The book reflects a high credit upon its writer's 
powers, patience, skill, and well-directed zeal in observation, and will be prized by everyone 
who wishes to know how wild birds live." — The Times. 

ANIMAL LIFE BY 
THE SEA-SHORE 

By G. A. BOULENGER, LL.D., D.Sc, PH.D., F.R.S., F.Z.S., 
and C. A. BOULENGER, M.A., D.Sc, F.Z.S. 

Large 8vo, cloth, gilt, 5/- 'i-t^t- By inland post 5/4. 

Nearly 100 Illustrations. 

THIS little book is a complete manual tor the use of the amateur naturalist 
at the sea-side. The authors — recognised authorities on the subject — 
have themselves, in the past, experienced the want of such a guide, and in 
clear and simple language they have endeavoured in this little volume to supply 
the requirements ot all who are interested in sea-shore zoology. 

" A scientifically reliable account of the innumerable forms of animal life that are to be 
found on the beach or among the rocks. It does not waste words in its descriptions, and makes 
an admirable vadetneciim to the amateur zoologist, who will find in it everything that he is 
likely to want to know." — Scotsman. 



THE 
66 



Country Life" Library of Sport 

Edited by HORACE ( ; . H T T C H I N S O N . 

12/6 net each volume. By post 6d. extra. 

A Series devoted to Sport and Pastime ; each branch being dealt with by the 
most qualified experts on the subjects which they have made peculiarly their own 



QJ? jr^JT'p'T' With over 80 Illustrations taken from the most interesting of the 
old cricketing prints. One Volume. 

PJgfJJ^Q With Coloured Plates of Salmon and Trout Flies. Over 250 full- 
page Illustrations and numerous diagrams. In Two Volumes. 

C XJQr\Tri^r^ The breeding, rearing and shooting of pheasants, partridges, and 
wild duck. In Two Volumes. 

BIG GAME SHOOTING with over 200 illustrations from photo- 

graphs, showmg animals in their actual 
habitat and natural environment. In Two Volumes. 

POLO, PAST AND PRESENT ^^V^^"^^ v ''^^"tllTc'^n 

cradle in Persia, many cen- 
turies back, up to the present time. Profusely Illustrated. In One Volume. 

Mr. Hutchinson and his colleagues iaave done their work thoroughly." —The Globe . 




GOLF GREENS AND GREEN KEEPING 

By HORACE G HUTCHINSON. 

Cheap Edition 5s. net. By post 5s. 4d. 

"The practical worth of the volume is nearly equal to the combined worth of all 
the books that have been written on the theory and practice of golf." — Yorkshire Post. 



13 

THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING. 

Edited by E. T. Cook. A comprehensive work for every lover of the 
garden. 624 pages, with about 600 Illustrations, many of them full- 
page Ato (12 in. by 8^ in.). 21s. Net, by post 21s. \Qd. 

" No department of gardening is neglected, and the illustrations of famous 
and beautiful gardens and of the many winsome achievements of the gardener's 
art are so numerous and attractive as to make the veriest cockney yearn to turn 
gardener. If The Century Book of Gardening does not make all who see it 
covet their neighbours' gardens through sheer despair of ever making for them- 
selves such gardens as are there illustrated, it should, at any rate, inspire everyone 
who desires to have a garden with an ambition to make it as beautiful as he 
can."— Times. 

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. 

{A Handbook to the Garden). By E. T. Cook. With over 200 
Illustrations, Plans, Diagrams, etc. Sixth Edition. 

12s. ed. Net, by post 12s. lid. 

" One cannot speak in too high praise of the idea that led Mr. E. T. Cook 
to compile this Gardening for Beginners, and of the completeness and succinct- 
ness with which the idea has been carried out. Nothing is omitted. ... It 
is a book that will be welcomed with enthusiasm in the world of gardeners. 
. . . One only regrets that the book was not published years ago."— Morning 
Post. 

WALL AND WATER GARDENS. 

With Chapters on the Rock Garden, the Heath Garden, the Paved 
Water Garden, etc. By Gertrude Jekyll. Containing instructions 
and hints on the cultivation of suitable plants on dry walls, rock 
walls, in streams, marsh pools, lakes, ponds, tanks, and water margins. 
With over 200 Illustrations, Plans and Diagrams. Fifth Edition. 
Large Svo. 12s. Qd. Net, by post 12s. 11^. 

" He who will consent to follow Miss Jekyll aright will find that under her 
guidance the old walls, the stone steps, the rockeries, the pond, or streamlets 
of his garden will presently blossom with all kinds of flowers undreamed of, and 
become marvels of varied foliage." — Times. 

COLOUR SCHEMES FOR THE FLOWER 
GARDEN. 

By Gertrude Jekyll. With over 100 Illustrations and Planting 
Plans. Third Edition. 12s. Qd. Net, by post 12s. lid. 

" Miss Jekyll is one of the most stimulating of those who write about what 
may be called the pictorial side of gardening. . . . She has spent a lifetime 
in learning how to grow and place flowers so as to make the most beautiful and 
satisfying effects, and she has imparted the fruits of her experience in these 
delightful pages." — Daily Mail. 

TREES & SHRUBS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS. 

By E. T. Cook. 12s. Qd. Net, by post 2s. lid. 

" It contains a mass of instruction and illustration not always to be found 
altogether when required, and as such it will be very useful as a popular hand- 
book for amateurs and others anxious to grow trees and shrubs." — Field. 



MY GARDEN. By Eden Phillpotts. 

60 full-page Illustrations. 6s. Net, bv post 6s. Ad. 

"It is a thoroughly practical book, addressed especially to those who, like 
liimself, have about an acre of flower garden, and are willinf,' and competent to 
help a gardener to make it as rich, as harmonious, and as enduring as possible. 
His chapters on irises are particularly good." — World. 

THE FRUIT GARDEN. 

B\> George Buny.\rd and Owen Thomas. 507 pages. 

Size, lOi in. by 1\ in. 12s. 6^. Net, by post 12s. \\d. 

" Without any doubt the best book of the sort yet published. There is a 
separate chapter for every kind of fruit, and each chapter is a book in itself — 
there is, in fact, everything that anyone can need or wish for in order to succeed 
in fruit growing. The book simply teems with illustrations, diagrams, and 
outlines." — Journal of the Royal Horticiiliural Society. 

A GARDEN IN VENICE. 

By F. Eden. An account of the author's beautiful garden on the 
Island of the Guidecca at Venice. With 21 Collotype and 50 other 
Illustrations. Parchment, limp. \Qs.Qd.Net,bypost\Os. \0d. 

" Written with a brightness and an infectious enthusiasm that impart interest 
even to technicalities, it is beautifully and rarely pictured, and its material 
equipment is such as to delight the lover of beautiful books." — Glasgow Herald. 

THE DISEASES OF TREES. 

By Professor R. Hartig. RoyalSvo. \0s.6d. Net, by post lOs. lid. 

THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 

By Mrs. K. L. Davidson. 5s. Net, bv post 5s. 5d. 

" An infinity of pleasure can be obtained from the due use of an unheated 
house built under proper conditions, and it is the function of Mrs. Davidson's 
book to provide hints and directions how to build such a house, and how to 
cultivate the plants that can be cultivated with advantage without artifical 

heat."— Pall Mall Gazette. 

LILIES FOR ENGLISH GARDENS. [8s. lOd. 

Written and compiled bv Gertrude Jekyll. 8s. 6d. Net, by post 

" Lilies for English Gardens is a volume in the Country Life Library, 
and it is almost sufficiently high commendation to say that the book is worthy of 
the journal. Miss Jekyll's aim has been to write and compile a book on Lilies 
which shall tell amateurs, in the plainest and simplest possible way, how most 
easily and successfully to grow the Lily." — ■Westminster Gazette. 

CHILDREN AND GARDENS 

By Gertrude Jekyll. A garden book for children. Thoroughly 
practical and full of pictures. Qs. Net, by post Qs. 5d. 

" Little bits of botany, quaint drawings of all kinds of things, pretty 
pictures, reminiscences and amusements — why, it is a veritable ' Swiss Family 
Robinson ' for the bairns, and we shall be surprised and disappointed if it is not 
introduced into many hundreds of homes." — Liverpool Post. 



15 

ROCK AND WATER GARDENS 

THEIR MAKING AND PLANTING. 

With Chapters on Wall and Heath Gardens. By F. H. Meyer. 
Edited by E. T. Cook. 6s. Net, by post 6s. 4d. 

" In this book the author has studied every detail of Nature's ways in order 
to reproduce in the garden the charms of natural scenery." — Standard. 

SEASIDE PLANTING OF TREES & SHRUBS. 

By Alfred Gaut, F.R.H.S. . An interesting and instructive book 
dealing with a phase of arboriculture hitherto not touched upon. It 
is profusely illustrated, and diagrams are given explaining certain 
details. 5s. Net, by post 5s. Qd. 

" Mr. Gaut has accomplished a piece of very solid and extremely useful 
work, and one that may not be without considerable influence upon the future 
development of coast-side garden work and agriculture." — Liverpool Courier. 

THE BOOK OF BRITISH FERNS. 

By Chas. T. Druery, F.L.S., V.M.H., President of the British 
Pteridological Society. 3s. Qd. Net, by post 3s. 9d. 

"The book is well and lucidly written and arranged; it is altogether 
beautifully got up. Mr. Druery has long been recognised as an authority on 
the subject." — St. James's Gazette. 

GARDENING MADE EASY. 

By E. T. Cook. An instructive and practical gardening book of 
200 pages and 23 Illustrations, all showing the way certain garden 
operations should be performed. It is the A. B.C. of gardening. 

Is. Net. Cloth, Is. 6^. Net, by post 3d. extra. 

"It contains avast amount of information in easily understood language 
that will be most helpful to persons who love to look after their own garden." — 

Scotsman. 

ROSE GROWING MADE EASY. 

By E. T. Cook. A simple Rose Guide for amateurs, freely illus- 
trated, with diagrams showing ways of increasing, pruning and pro- 
tecting roses. Is. Net. Cloth, Is. 6d. Net, by post 3d. extra. 

"... gives full and reliable information on everything connected with 
the subject, and ought to be in the hands of every rose grower, be he an 
amateur or an experienced gardener." — Aberdeen Free Press. 

THE ENGLISH VEGETABLE GARDEN. 

By various Experts. Cheap Edition, 5s. Net, by post 5s. Qd. 

" The book is of a thoroughly practical nature, and covers the whole ground 
from the trenching of the land to the gathering of the produce, and, aided by 
suitable illustrations, the writers have succeeded in furnishing a book which 
will be of inestimable advantage to the enterprising private or market gardener 
who would make the most of his resources." — Field. 



i6 

FRUIT-GROWING FOR BEGINNERS. 

A simple and concise handbook on the cullivation of Fruit. By F. W. 
Harvey, F.R.H.S. Is. Net. Cloth, Is. Qd. Net. Postage 'Sd. extra. 

" An amazing amount of information is packed into this book." 

^Evening News. 

VEGETABLE GROWING MADE EASY. 

A simple and concise handbook on the cultivation of Vegetables. By 
Owen Thomas, F.R.H.S., V.M.H., and George Wythes, F.R.H.S., 
V.M.H., and The Cooking of Vegetables by Mrs. Frances 
Keyzer. Is. Net. Cloth, \s. 6d. Net. Postage 3d. extra. 

" A really valuable book." — The Lady. 



POEMS. By Dorothy Frances Gurney. 5s. Net, by post 5s. 3d. 

TOYS OF OTHER DAYS. 

By ]\Irs. Nevill Jackson. Cheap Edition, 5s. Net. Edition de 
Luxe, 21s. Net, by post 6d. extra. 

" A noble and enchanting volume, full of research, and abounding in interest 
to every lover of childhood and the youth of the world." — Standard. 

ECONOMIES IN DAIRY FARMING. 

An important Work on Dairying by Ernest Mathews {the well- 
known Judge and Expert). 7s. 6d. Net, by post Is. \0d. 
"The author of this book is so well known among farmers, especially those 
interested in the selection and judging of cows, that his name and experience 
alone will go far to ensure that his views receive the attention they deserve. He 
has for many years past been judge in all the most important butter tests which 
have been held at our principal agricultural shows." — Journal of the Bath and 
IVest of Engliuid Society. 

GAUSERIES ON ENGLISH PEWTER. 

By Antonio de Navarro. A book for all lovers of the Pewterer's Art. 

10s. 6d. Net, by inland post lis. 
" Apart from the charm and value of the essays, there is a splendid collec- 
tion of illustrations, giving rare and typical examples of all forms of domestic 
and ecclesiastical pewter." — Manehester Courier. 

PHOTOGRAPHY FOR BEGINNERS. 

This is an instructive and practical book, worded clearly but non- 
scientifically , for the tyro camera user. 

Is. Net. Cloth, is. Qd. Net, by post 3d. extra. 

"... a thoroughly practical and simply written manual, and is just 

the book which the amateur needs to help him pleasantly over the many 

difficulties which constantly afflict him in the early stages of his hobby." — 

Glasgow Herald. 

FRENCH HOUSEHOLD COOKING. 

By Mrs. Frances Keyzer. Shows how simple and inexpensive is 
the art of cooking as the French understand it. 

Is. Net. Cloth, Is. 6d. Net, by post 3d. extra. 
" There should be many readers for ' French Household Cooking ' by Mrs. 
Frances Kevzer, who gives plainly and shortly a number of simple and inex- 
pensive French recipes of an excellent and homely nature, and in no way beyond 
the means or capability of a plain English cook who takes an interest in her work. 
— Daily Express. 



